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New Man Door for the Shop


Chet

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This is a couple of pictures of the new door I made for the shop.  The old one was falling a part at the bottom.  There wasn't any real challenges to doing this project other then making sure all of my measurements for the hinge locations and door knob were acurate so that they lined up with the existing locations on the door frame itself.

I did work on one new skill and I bought one new tool.  The skill if that is what you want to call it was I built this door using metric measurements.  This is something I have want to do for quite some time and after having done it on this project I think it will be my choice going forward. It makes math a lot simpler in the fact that you are just adding or subtracting whole numbers.  Just a point of interest, one millimeter is smaller than a 1/16th of an inch. 

The tool I bought was a Metric Tape Measure. 😎

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"Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not;  remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." - Epicurus

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I used 1/8" thick glass tempered glass.  It was $30 for the 22" X 27" piece.  I had a bit of a time finding a place that would just cut the glass for me, some of the places would only do it if they got to install it also. 🤨

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"Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not;  remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." - Epicurus

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Nice job, looks great!  A few questions..

  • I've been to your shop and know your climate, poplar and ply?  It's painted so, that's an assumption.
  • What would you have done differently if you wanted/needed to use insulated glass?
  • M&T joinery or floating tenon?  Or, other?
  • Paint choice?

A door is on my list to do so, just questions.

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14 hours ago, Kev said:
  • I've been to your shop and know your climate, poplar and ply?  It's painted so, that's an assumption.
  • Correct, Poplar and the panel is Birch Ply.  I would have preferred Fir but couldn't find anything thicker then 4/4
  • What would you have done differently if you wanted/needed to use insulated glass?
  • I didn't really think about this because my shop isn't climate controlled.  Insulated or double pane would have been maybe 3/8" to 1/2" thick so my molding would have had to been smaller and I probably would have been a little nervous about is holding power then.  The door is the equivalent of 1 1/4" thick
  • M&T joinery or floating tenon?  Or, other?
  • Floating tenons, 3/8"thick X 50 mm wide X 100 mm long  (3/8" Router bit diameter)
  • Paint choice?
  • Primer is a Benjamin Moore product called Stix, I find it flows a lot nicer then something like Kilz.  I did two coats of this.  Top coat was also Benjamin Moore product called Regal Select High Build that I had left over from painting the house this past summer.  Two coats of this also.

 

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"Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not;  remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." - Epicurus

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I should add - there are two floating tenons on each side of the top and middle rail and three on the bottom rail. Also if I had been able to source some fir I would have used Spar Varnish or Epifanes for the finish.

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"Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not;  remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." - Epicurus

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Great looking door Chet! When I built my walnut interior door, my biggest concern, along with beating the epoxy to setting, was keeping it coplaner and fortunately and luckily, it stayed that way. Of all the projects that I’ve built, I think it’s the most gratifying. Each time I open the door to go into the bathroom, it brings a smile to my face, even after these couple years. I hope you enjoy the same! 

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