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Dining chairs


Jamie

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I would want to get as close to the 

13 hours ago, Jamie said:

Just did a quick search and every chart I found had for bits under 1” diameter that 18-24k was the recommendation. 

Thats what my chart says too and I would want to get as close to the recommended speed as possible.  Oak has a lot of tannin in it and you can get burn marks pretty easily because of that.  I would put oak in the same category as cherry and maple for how easily it can burn.  Cherry and maple its the sugar, oak its the tannin.

Also before you cut the curves on you back legs you might want to think of how you will cut the mortises, especially the ones for your side aprons.  They might be a lot easier on a flat surface as apposed to a curved surface.

 

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"Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not;  remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." - Epicurus

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8 minutes ago, Chet said:

Also before you cut the curves on you back legs you might want to think of how you will cut the mortises, especially the ones for your side aprons.  They might be a lot easier on a flat surface as apposed to a curved surface.

 

Excellent advice!

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55 minutes ago, Chet said:

I would want to get as close to the 

Thats what my chart says too and I would want to get as close to the recommended speed as possible.  Oak has a lot of tannin in it and you can get burn marks pretty easily because of that.  I would put oak in the same category as cherry and maple for how easily it can burn.  Cherry and maple its the sugar, oak its the tannin.

Also before you cut the curves on you back legs you might want to think of how you will cut the mortises, especially the ones for your side aprons.  They might be a lot easier on a flat surface as apposed to a curved surface.

 

Those mortises are actually on a flat spot on the legs. Will have to cut a curved support to hold them in position, with the moving table on the rikon it shouldn’t be much of an issue. Good thinking tho!

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After work I got to work on the back leg jig. 12FCC800-DDE3-48D3-B2CB-A7F239619534.thumb.jpeg.0a642b0f3d1d951fff34daa7f27f5fff.jpeg

Gonna try my best to explain what I have going on here. I rough cut a mdf sled to use as the template for the back legs. Each side of the template cuts the front and the other side cuts the back shape. I screwed down my 1/4 template that I took from the drawings and set blocks on the jig. On the front of the chair which would be my first cut I needed to set the stop blocks 1/16 farther back from the front edge to allow for the cut on the opposite side. To get the 1/16 shim I just ripped some scrap mdf. long with cutting the leg blank strong of the line everywhere except for on the bottom of the leg. 
 

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In this photo I am flush cutting to the 1/4 template. I also set the final length of the leg to the template. 
 

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Added some clamps to the template for holding the leg blank. Only had 4 of them on hand so will have to switch them up in the process. Am going to check the hardware store tomorrow to see if they have any. 
 

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Roughed out a couple of leg blanks on the bandsaw. Decided that I should take one of the legs and run through the process that I have planned to see if there were any snags in the thinking. After I roughed the leg I was able to get it over the jointer to make one face flat. Just had to curve my way through it. Worked pretty nice I must admit. Next went through the planer to get closer to 1 5/8 thick.  Not sure if I should drum sand them before routing the edge or after. Will plane them to 1 11/16 and leave the final bit for the drum sander.

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Was excited to try the jig out! On the first cut it worked pretty well. What I didn’t realize when I bought the bit is that it has a slight downward shear angle. Which is opposite of what I need in this situation. I did get very minor tear out in a spot or two that had grain going opposite of the cut.  I didn’t try climb cutting any of it. 5593D426-7F87-453E-8FDC-61EEE880D044.thumb.jpeg.f29eb23edd7de92e921d8822e5514f1d.jpeg
The end result  Happy with most of the process.  Just need to decide if I want to wait a week for another bit or go with the one I have  it did cut pretty nice on the router.  The first cut I should mention that I had the router on full speed and did get a slight burn.  On the second pass I did slow it down some and did reduce the burning.

 

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7 minutes ago, Kev said:

Another thing you can do to help with the tear out is to try and remove less material.  Spindle sander, spoke shave, ect to get a little closer to the line.  

Looking great though!

Thanks! 
 

That’s good advice, I’m going to use that when I get to a tricky grain spot. With the curve of these legs there is really no way to get away from cutting against the grain. On one side or the other I will be fighting the grain direction. In oak it’s more so the ray direction that gets ya. 

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6 minutes ago, Jamie said:

Thanks! 
 

That’s good advice, I’m going to use that when I get to a tricky grain spot. With the curve of these legs there is really no way to get away from cutting against the grain. On one side or the other I will be fighting the grain direction. In oak it’s more so the ray direction that gets ya. 

Well, one thing you can do there is get a bit with a bearing both on the top and the bottom and switch your pattern.  This allows you to go at those tricky spots from either direction.

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Just now, Kev said:

Well, one thing you can do there is get a bit with a bearing both on the top and the bottom and switch your pattern.  This allows you to go at those tricky spots from either direction.

I don’t know if I could do that in this situation. Would have to make a completely new jig opposite of the one I have made already. I may just have to do my homework on a spokeshave. Don’t own one, never actually have put my hands on one. 
 

I will admit I ordered a couple card scrapers to clean these legs up. There again have no experience using them. Thank god for the university of YouTube. 

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5 minutes ago, Jamie said:

I don’t know if I could do that in this situation. Would have to make a completely new jig opposite of the one I have made already. I may just have to do my homework on a spokeshave. Don’t own one, never actually have put my hands on one. 
 

No, you just turn the piece over and raise the bit up so the bottom bearing will ride the template.  It feels a little uncomfortable because you can't see the template like you can when it's on the top but, it's a good way to switch directions for the bit to always be running down hill. 

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1 minute ago, Kev said:

No, you just turn the piece over and raise the bit up so the bottom bearing will ride the template.  It feels a little uncomfortable because you can't see the template like you can when it's on the top but, it's a good way to switch directions for the bit to always be running down hill. 

The bit I have does have the bearing on both the top and bottom. I am running on the bottom bearing. I have no way to flip the jig or piece over because of the way the hold down clamps are positioned. 

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Just now, Jamie said:

The bit I have does have the bearing on both the top and bottom. I am running on the bottom bearing. I have no way to flip the jig or piece over because of the way the hold down clamps are positioned. 

Yea, you'd have to switch to double sided tape or the blue tape/CA glue trick but, you have the right bit!

 

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Did finally get a day away from the real job. Took the wife and kids on a little day trip to a cave and a lookout over the Mississippi River. The leaves around here are about at their prime color so enjoyed taking in the sites. 
 

Also got in a little shop time when we got home. Only about an hour or so. Started roughing out the back legs on the bandsaw had enough time to get about half of them cut out. Was being really careful in my lumber selection for them but the same problems are popping up that I had on the table. There is some shake and fine cracks running through some of the material. Makes it very frustrating. BCA247E9-B1D7-4512-BC9A-91C6D9C97E2D.thumb.jpeg.ba4a65c8c68cfaa3689c338069e28013.jpeg

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6 hours ago, Bushwacked said:

its finally not 100 down here in texas so we can leave the house again for some fun much needed outings too ?

I couldn’t handle that much heat for that long! We have had a couple frosts here already. Chance of snow Friday morning. Gosh I hope that stays away!  

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Well I found a little time in the shop the last couple nights. Kept working on roughing out the back legs. All in all it took a couple hours at the bandsaw to get the 17 legs cut. BAAB02F2-B452-4C37-964C-1EBC174CF5CC.thumb.jpeg.b5556b7d6e174f1288da967d0fde81ed.jpeg

I then moved on to the other parts of the chair that needed to come from 8/4 stock. Was able to use up some of the off cuts from the back legs to make a few of the other parts. Just a lot of trips between the jointer, tablesaw and miter saw to get the parts cut. I like to cut all my parts about an inch longer than the final dimension till I get them milled to thickness and width. I face joint and then edge joint each part and use the planer to bring them to 1/16” of final dimension. The last 1/16 I’ll take off with the drum sander.
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15 hours ago, Coop said:

Looking good! You need to be playing ZZ Top’s “Legs” as background music to put you in the groove! 

Thanks!  Lol i do like the classic rock from time to time.  Usually have on the 90's alternative rock going in the shop tho.  

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Quite a bit of work has gotten done since my last update.   Have the back and front legs all milled along with the crest rail and shoe. Quite a few parts to joint, plane and sand. Had Emmi who is 7 catching out of the drum sander for me. Was amazed how well she followed directions and paid attention to the process. After she went to be I had Courtney help, she danced around and was looking at her phone the whole time. She is 32. ?

 

The router template jig took a little figuring out on my end. The first couple legs I ran basically blew up in my hands. E01031BA-4E2B-46E3-B82B-BA93DDCA09AC.thumb.jpeg.dccb72104b578137975f5c62c9245f29.jpeg
 

I scratched my head a bit and played around with the destroyed legs and approached it differently. I took the roughed out blanks and re traced the template on them. Went back to the bandsaw, sander and jointer to remove quite a bit of the material.  What I found with the router template that removing 1/32-1/16 of a inch it worked pretty well. I made my way through the rest of the legs without much issue. 
 

The main issue that I am having with this whole project is the lumber. It has shake in it that doesn’t seem to show up till you really cut into it. The only tear out that I ended up getting on the back legs was from the shake parts of the lumber. I ended up making about 6 extra back legs. I’m pretty sure I’m going to struggle to find 16 good legs in the pile. Problem is all my 8/4 stock is used up except for 2 boards that are mostly quarter sawn. I called around and would have to go over an hour to get some 8/4 or wait about a week to have some ordered in. 

Sorry didn’t grab many photos, will get some more tomorrow  

 

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10 minutes ago, Chet said:

Yea, with pattern routing I like to get pretty close to the line on the band saw.

Yeah that definitely makes a difference. I didn’t cut real close when initially cutting them out as I didn’t feel my blanks were flat. The boards I had were to wide to face joint so ran each part after roughing them out. I was anywhere from 1/16 to an 1/8 over on the first cut. Maybe a little more at times.  
 

Am learning quite a bit in this whole process. 

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Got to play quite a bit in the shop today. Started off by sanding the faces of the legs that had some router marks in them. Also ca glued the shake cracks. Overall I made 23 leg blanks to get the final 16. F69D07D3-7D44-4012-85CD-B9ED2AAD1A21.thumb.jpeg.1e87ab56a3238bb7883666bf7a90cb58.jpeg
The legs sanded up  

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After the sanding I had to clean the shop up some.  Had a full dust barrel and cleaned the filters.  I think that is the worst job in the shop!

 

Moved on to matching the sets of legs up and marked out the mortises.  Used the template that I made to lay them all out  DCA71510-4861-49D9-ADD7-BFFEF72C3A64.thumb.jpeg.561c66f0aacb2120bb17202df8db1891.jpegAFFD6F60-6331-4F89-A542-7BC8BFF2B3D2.thumb.jpeg.8b1402b1bb44b611d5402ff23bbcc53b.jpeg

 

Also matched the legs to the front legs. Need to cut a bevel on the front legs yet and lay out the mortises on them.  Looking forward to using the rikon to cut all these. 

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