Chet Posted November 27, 2020 Share Posted November 27, 2020 11 hours ago, Coop said: I’m leaning towards flush. I think that is what I would do. It is a bit of work but it is one of those things where you are glad you did it in the end. Hey you have six weeks to get it done.? 1 Quote "Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not; remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." - Epicurus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Posted November 29, 2020 Share Posted November 29, 2020 That’s a bummer. I think what I’d do rather than shoot for flush is to shrink it more like 3/16 to leave a shadow line. That will also give you some play with your adhesive. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted November 29, 2020 Share Posted November 29, 2020 13 hours ago, Jamie said: That will also give you some play with your adhesive The Lexel that he is using isn't so much acting as an adhesive but more as a way of keeping the glass from rattling in the door. If I am not mistaking he is only going to put down about 1/16 inch bead and when you put the pane in, the weight of the glass will pretty much flatten the bead to the point that it doesn't really effect the dimensions in a noticeable way. 1 Quote "Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not; remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." - Epicurus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted November 30, 2020 Author Share Posted November 30, 2020 Chet, I have used this a couple of times from Steve’s suggestion but don’t remember when and where. Given the size and weight of theses glass panels, will they eventually move to the bottom of the frame? Plan right now is to give the door to the trim guy to build a frame or jamb, not sure which is correct. Once it is hung to my satisfaction, I will remove it and lay the door flat and install the glass. I bet the Lexel does not hold it from dropping down, even with the strips in place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted November 30, 2020 Share Posted November 30, 2020 2 minutes ago, Coop said: Chet, I have used this a couple of times from Steve’s suggestion but don’t remember when and where. Given the size and weight of theses glass panels, will they eventually move to the bottom of the frame? Plan right now is to give the door to the trim guy to build a frame or jamb, not sure which is correct. Once it is hung to my satisfaction, I will remove it and lay the door flat and install the glass. I bet the Lexel does not hold it from dropping down, even with the strips in place? If it were mine, I'd pop the glass in before giving it to the guy building the jam. For that matter, I'd be the guy building the jam as well ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted November 30, 2020 Author Share Posted November 30, 2020 Yeah, I thought about building it myself. I am buying kiln dried maple, per Chet’s suggestion, to give to the trim guy to help insure no cupping. My thought, if it doesn’t fit, it’s on him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted November 30, 2020 Share Posted November 30, 2020 5 minutes ago, Coop said: Yeah, I thought about building it myself. I am buying kiln dried maple, per Chet’s suggestion, to give to the trim guy to help insure no cupping. My thought, if it doesn’t fit, it’s on him. Get him some walnut to match the door at the minimum. I'd also mill it and cut it to rough size to hedge your bets. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted November 30, 2020 Author Share Posted November 30, 2020 I’ve toyed with the idea of walnut for the jamb but have looked at pics of walnut as the jamb, and also with walnut as the trim and jamb. To me, the walnut jamb alone doesn’t seem to add much to it. Google walnut doors and jambs, or something along those lines, and give me your opinion. Other opinions welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted November 30, 2020 Share Posted November 30, 2020 Just now, Coop said: I’ve toyed with the idea of walnut for the jamb but have looked at pics of walnut as the jamb, and also with walnut as the trim and jamb. To me, the walnut jamb alone doesn’t seem to add much to it. Google walnut doors and jambs, or something along those lines, and give me your opinion. Other opinions welcome. Personally, I wouldn't do anything but a walnut jam with a walnut door. I suppose it's a personal preference but, it would be walnut for me. Not a lot of cost difference for a small detail. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted November 30, 2020 Author Share Posted November 30, 2020 (edited) At this point, price is not a consideration. I can always start a go fund me. ? I’m definitely not one for an eye for design. Thanks Edited November 30, 2020 by Coop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted November 30, 2020 Share Posted November 30, 2020 56 minutes ago, Coop said: Given the size and weight of theses glass panels, will they eventually move to the bottom of the frame? Possible but I couldn't tell you for sure. I have always mounted so the bottom edge of the glass was pretty much at the bottom of the frame figuring it may end up there anyway. I only mentioned the maple if it was going to be a painted surface. If it is going to get some other type of finish then maple may not be the thing to use. 2 Quote "Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not; remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." - Epicurus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted November 30, 2020 Author Share Posted November 30, 2020 I’m thinking also about the painter cutting into the walnut jamb, and future paintings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted November 30, 2020 Share Posted November 30, 2020 1 minute ago, Coop said: I’m thinking also about the painter cutting into the walnut jamb, and future paintings. There's a certain amount of the jam that shows regardless of whether it's painted or not. If this were my door, these parts would be walnut. The trim around it should match whatever you have in the room. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Posted November 30, 2020 Share Posted November 30, 2020 Im all in on the walnut jamb. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted December 1, 2020 Author Share Posted December 1, 2020 I am mostly out of the original walnut and would have to buy some from one of my suppliers. Probably one of my biggest concerns is a mismatch in colors between mine and theirs. Is this a valid concern? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted December 1, 2020 Share Posted December 1, 2020 4 minutes ago, Coop said: I am mostly out of the original walnut and would have to buy some from one of my suppliers. Probably one of my biggest concerns is a mismatch in colors between mine and theirs. Is this a valid concern? Take a scrap with you and get as close as you can.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenskye (Bryan) Posted December 1, 2020 Share Posted December 1, 2020 3 minutes ago, Coop said: I am mostly out of the original walnut and would have to buy some from one of my suppliers. Probably one of my biggest concerns is a mismatch in colors between mine and theirs. Is this a valid concern? Coop, I don’t think the color is a big issue if it is close. Remember you won’t be looking at both surfaces at the same time at the same angle, if you get what I am saying. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted December 1, 2020 Author Share Posted December 1, 2020 Ok, walnut it is. Framers will be here tomorrow to start, so I’ll fetch me some walnut on Wednesday. I cut some 1x’s today to represent walls and some scrap ply to represent vanities and laid them out on the slab. Sure looks different than on paper. This monster bathroom just became very modest. ? Thanks all! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted December 1, 2020 Author Share Posted December 1, 2020 Just had a thought. How should I treat the installation of the jamb if it’s walnut? Painted, the nail holes would be filled and sanded. I’m thinking of prefinishing it, like the door, prior to installation? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted December 1, 2020 Share Posted December 1, 2020 15 minutes ago, Coop said: Just had a thought. How should I treat the installation of the jamb if it’s walnut? Painted, the nail holes would be filled and sanded. I’m thinking of prefinishing it, like the door, prior to installation? Walnut filler. If you refinish, I'd do ARS only and hold off on the clear until after the install. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted December 2, 2020 Author Share Posted December 2, 2020 Looks like 2x studs are hard to come by. Lumber was backordered for two days. Just as well as rain is in the forecast. I took a ticker shock today after buying the walnut for the jamb and casing. $8.25 bf was the best I could do. I think I will attempt to make the jamb myself. Not knowing the exact floor depth, I will leave the stiles a few inches proud at the bottom and let the contractor make the final cuts. There needs to be plenty of clearance below the door as that will be the return air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted December 2, 2020 Author Share Posted December 2, 2020 21 hours ago, Kev said: Walnut filler. If you refinish, I'd do ARS only and hold off on the clear until after the install. Why is that? To avoid nicks and scratches? And foam brush on the clear after install? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted December 2, 2020 Share Posted December 2, 2020 37 minutes ago, Coop said: Why is that? To avoid nicks and scratches? And foam brush on the clear after install? No.. Because nail heads will be put through creating holes. Put a little filler in the little holes, sand, hit those spots with ARS, and then clear the whole thing. Short story - Makes repairing the nail holes much easier. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted December 3, 2020 Author Share Posted December 3, 2020 $258.00 later, I now have lumber for jamb and casing. After jointing one edge and one side, I ran all thru the planer. One board has wonky but great looking grain. When the planer got to that area, it shut down. I changed blades, waxed the table and it did it again twice on other boards. I will order another switch and see if that solves the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwacked Posted December 3, 2020 Share Posted December 3, 2020 9 hours ago, Coop said: $258.00 later, I now have lumber for jamb and casing. After jointing one edge and one side, I ran all thru the planer. One board has wonky but great looking grain. When the planer got to that area, it shut down. I changed blades, waxed the table and it did it again twice on other boards. I will order another switch and see if that solves the problem. what planer you using coop? how much of a cut are you taking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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