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Split Top Workbench (Not really a Roubo)


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8 hours ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said:

I cut the tenons first.  

Still doable, just a bit more work..

If you can get one template to fit all your tenons, you can double stick tape it down and use the router to clean up the mortises..  Might save you a lot of chisel work..

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The way I did mine was marked out the tenons on to the top. Then relieve cut around it with a chisel then plunge router an hogged out all the waste to depth free hand. There was some clean up with the chisel but don’t a lot. They don’t have to be super accurate a perfect if it’s to much of a friction fit you won’t ever get them all in with out a sledgehammer. 

On 7/19/2020 at 7:01 PM, Woodenskye (Bryan) said:

Today is the day that I realize I really need to think through a project before starting.  The tenons on my legs are 1 1/4 w by 2 3/4 l and 1 1/2 d. I cut them first, what a mistake, I should do e mortises first and with a router.  Chopping these by hand in 100* degree heat only proves I'm an idiot.

Test

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10 hours ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said:

Today is the day that I realize I really need to think through a project before starting.  The tenons on my legs are 1 1/4 w by 2 3/4 l and 1 1/2 d. I cut them first, what a mistake, I should do e mortises first and with a router.  Chopping these by hand in 100* degree heat only proves I'm an idiot.

Actually, I think you did it right..  It's easer to flip the base over on to the bottom of the top to locate for the mortises.

A template tho would make the job easier.  Just use some double stick tape to hold the template in place and go for it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So work on the bench has slowed a bit.  It's been to darn hot, plus my son's lacrosse season is in full effect.  So I have a question, I am installing my vise.  I need to make a recess that is 8" X 6" X 2 1/8" deep.  I was planning on using a router, but on second thought am I better removing the bulk with a forsner bit and clean up with router?  What bit is best?

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5 hours ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said:

So work on the bench has slowed a bit.  It's been to darn hot, plus my son's lacrosse season is in full effect.  So I have a question, I am installing my vise.  I need to make a recess that is 8" X 6" X 2 1/8" deep.  I was planning on using a router, but on second thought am I better removing the bulk with a forsner bit and clean up with router?  What bit is best?

Is this for the BC Crisscross hardware?  If so, those numbers don't sound right..

Regardless, if I needed to remove that much material, yes, I would start with a forstner to remove the bulk..

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1 hour ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said:

I'm installing a vise that I restored that was my grandpa's.  

That is pretty cool.  Creates a legacy on the new bench.  I am looking forward to seeing that.

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"Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not;  remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." - Epicurus

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2 hours ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said:

The thing that concerns me or creates apprehension is I'm trying to flush mount the back jaw with the front of the bench, and don't want to screw it up.

Measure twice and probably cut 4 times. You got this!

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  • 3 weeks later...

So not a lot of progress, but I finally managed to get the vise installed.  I drilled out most of the material with a forstner bit, then did the rest by hand.  It was a lot of work and spilled blood a few times, guess my chisels were sharp.  The vise is recessed into the front and I put a piece of pine flush with the front board, It is attached with two 3" long screws.  I still need to lag the vise to the underside of the bench.  Do you guys pre drill when using lag screws? 

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1 minute ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said:

Ok. I have been making some progress this week.  I have a question about finish.  On hand I have Lacquer and Arm R Seal.  Could I use these or should I go with Danish oil or something else?

Arm-R-Seal would be fine as long as you don't do too many coats..  You ultimately don't want a film finish because the bench is (I assume) going to be used and it becomes harder to repair.  Also, a film finish will make it slicker which you don't really want either.  I used the Arm-R-Seal on mine and I'm perfectly happy with it..

 

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I would only sand to 120, for the same reason Kev mentions above, you don't want it slick.

"Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not;  remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." - Epicurus

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  • 3 weeks later...

So it has been awhile since I have updated this.  I am basically going to call the bench done at this point.  I have been using for about a week and really like it.  I did finish with 2 thin coats of ARS.  The bench is extremely flat and very happy with it. I may add a few accessories.  It was a very big project and I'm happy to have some space back in the shop.  I turned the handle for the vise.  While waiting for a part for my lathe, I decided I should make a cabinet to take advantage of the space underneath.  I just need to add the drawer fronts, but not sure what I want to do for pulls.  I have started to organize the drawers.  In the cabinet, I decided to no fill the right side all the way with drawers.  I needed some larger cubbies so I left open, but can add more drawers down the road if needed.  

 

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