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What correction is needed for miter saw?


Bushwacked
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Kinda stumped on this … 

cutting out the butcher block countertop today and noticed my offcuts looked funny … 

 

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from the cut above … the top is thicker than the bottom. 

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not actually sure which adjustment on the saw I need to be looking at to correct this issue. Or what other cuts I need to try to see how they look to better pinpoint where to start working. Thoughts? 
 

I am thinking thicker on top than bottom might mean the blade is not coming down at 90* and might be like 88* or something coming down?? however I checked with my starrett and seems to be square ?? 
 

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My fist question would be "was the wood square to start with"?  

Next up would be "has your saw sunk in the table slightly"?  This could lift the wood slightly off of 90 to the saw.

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If you first picture is showing stock in the orientation it was when they were cut it would leave my to believe that your saw is not 90° to the fence.  Because you off cut scrap appears to be thick back by the fence and thinner away from the fence.

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“If you don’t have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”  John Wooden

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11 hours ago, Chet said:

If you first picture is showing stock in the orientation it was when they were cut it would leave my to believe that your saw is not 90° to the fence.  Because you off cut scrap appears to be thick back by the fence and thinner away from the fence.

Good thought!

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15 hours ago, Kev said:

My fist question would be "was the wood square to start with"?  

Next up would be "has your saw sunk in the table slightly"?  This could lift the wood slightly off of 90 to the saw.

1) Yes, it was just out of milling and checked with my square 

2) will check this morning ... 

12 hours ago, Chet said:

If you first picture is showing stock in the orientation it was when they were cut it would leave my to believe that your saw is not 90° to the fence.  Because you off cut scrap appears to be thick back by the fence and thinner away from the fence.

Yes, the first pic was right after the cut ... ok, will look up how to adjust that. 

12 hours ago, Coop said:

I’m like Kev. If you can still afford to cut more off the board, cut another slice off of the same end and see what it looks like.

I do have some scraps from the build that can be used 

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Got some tinkering in between glueups … 

 

from the quick eye test and square it seemed ok…

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First cuts … 

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messed with the screws … 


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2nd cuts … sorry didn’t use the same UOM and didn’t realize until I uploaded them 😞

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it was in MM and the readings were 10.54 and 10.57. Figured that should be plenty good! 
 

 

also Kev I checked your idea too … it is sitting just under the sides … but the picture makes it seem worse. I can slide a piece on and off without it getting stuck on anything. I might mess with that tomorrow and see if I can get perfectly flat across 

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2 hours ago, Bushwacked said:

also Kev I checked your idea too … it is sitting just under the sides … but the picture makes it seem worse. I can slide a piece on and off without it getting stuck on anything. I might mess with that tomorrow and see if I can get perfectly flat across 

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Will probably only be an "issue" with a shorter piece where the end is sitting up on the cabinet.  This will lift that end by that amount. 

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11 hours ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said:

1 other thing you may want to check or confirm is that your square is actually square. 

good call ... It was square at one time when I checked when I first got it, but will do the pencil test and see if it is still square. I am hoping so because I have babied this starrett 

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