Pattern routing 4” thick material

[Muttley000]

Looking for some advice. My wife has asked me to take time out from making for other people and do a table for her, the leg detail is shown in a picture  here, but she will want this in stained oak.

 

I don’t have a CNC so I will have to pattern route.  I am thinking about getting one of these large double bearing bits to do the work.  
https://www.infinitytools.com/mega-flush-trim-router-bits

I would do first pass at full depth with top bearing removed, flipping it over for second pass with bearing reattached.  What do you guys think?  Is there a different method, or different cutter you would use?  

[Chet]

I don't know as to what tools you have at your disposal but I would either cut the shape on my bandsaw and clean it up back to my line with a spindle sander or a spoke shave, but my personal first choice would be making a form and doing a bent lamination.

I think removing the top bearing, even if you can, would be a very unsafe option.  If you were to tip your work piece even a thou or two the now exposed top cutting surface of the bit is going to catch on your work and you will end up having a very, very bad day in the shop.  I get the heebee jeebee's just thinking about it.😱

[Kev]

4 hours ago, Muttley000 said:

Looking for some advice. My wife has asked me to take time out from making for other people and do a table for her, the leg detail is shown in a picture  here, but she will want this in stained oak.

 

I don’t have a CNC so I will have to pattern route.  I am thinking about getting one of these large double bearing bits to do the work.  
https://www.infinitytools.com/mega-flush-trim-router-bits

I would do first pass at full depth with top bearing removed, flipping it over for second pass with bearing reattached.  What do you guys think?  Is there a different method, or different cutter you would use?  

 

I'll start with the bits you've linked are great!  I have a few and really like them.

Questions:

1. When you say "stained oak" - Are you talking about oak that's stained or another species stained to look like oak?
2. Are you only trying to do the curved parts with the pattern routing?

Assuming you're only talking about doing the curved parts, there's a few different ways this can be done and pattern routing them is certainly a legit option.  You could also consider creating a template, getting them all close on the bandsaw and then gang them together to sand to final shape.  There might be some minor inconsistencies from piece to piece but, your eye would never detect those differences.

[Coop]

I’m more inclined to go with @Chet’s suggestion using the bs and spindle sander. These are smallish parts and not something I would trust with the mega router bit. 

[Muttley000]

9 hours ago, Chet said:

I don't know as to what tools you have at your disposal but I would either cut the shape on my bandsaw and clean it up back to my line with a spindle sander or a spoke shave, but my personal first choice would be making a form and doing a bent lamination.

I think removing the top bearing, even if you can, would be a very unsafe option.  If you were to tip your work piece even a thou or two the now exposed top cutting surface of the bit is going to catch on your work and you will end up having a very, very bad day in the shop.  I get the heebee jeebee's just thinking about it.😱

My bandsaw is a 12” atlas from the 50’s, not ideal for this, but I’d nurse it through getting within a 16th of the line. I don’t have a spindle sander, but this project will be my excuse to add one.  

4 hours ago, Kev said:

 

I'll start with the bits you've linked are great!  I have a few and really like them.

Questions:

1. When you say "stained oak" - Are you talking about oak that's stained or another species stained to look like oak?
2. Are you only trying to do the curved parts with the pattern routing?

Assuming you're only talking about doing the curved parts, there's a few different ways this can be done and pattern routing them is certainly a legit option.  You could also consider creating a template, getting them all close on the bandsaw and then gang them together to sand to final shape.  There might be some minor inconsistencies from piece to piece but, your eye would never detect those differences.

1) Red oak, stained to match some other pieces she has

2) was considering using the same technique on the coves on the bottom of the base 

5 minutes ago, Coop said:

I’m more inclined to go with @Chet’s suggestion using the bs and spindle sander. These are smallish parts and not something I would trust with the mega router bit. 

Thanks for the feedback!

[Coop]

@Muttley000, do you have that thick of stock to make them from one piece without laminating two pieces together? If not, then Chet’s suggestion of bent lamination would be the way to go, IMO.

[Muttley000]

21 hours ago, Coop said:

@Muttley000, do you have that thick of stock to make them from one piece without laminating two pieces together? If not, then Chet’s suggestion of bent lamination would be the way to go, IMO.

I would be gluing up 8/4 stock.  Laminating does create the problem of 4” wide thin strips. I really need a drum sander!

[Coop]

A drum sander is nice to have but for this project, you need an oscillating spindle sander.

[Muttley000]

On 5/2/2023 at 10:02 PM, Coop said:

A drum sander is nice to have but for this project, you need an oscillating spindle sander.

I was referring for use to run the strips through, but I agree impossible without a spindle sander no matter which way the curves are created!

[Chet]

2 hours ago, Muttley000 said:

I was referring for use to run the strips through, but I agree impossible without a spindle sander no matter which way the curves are created!

If you do the bent lamination, yes you would need a drum sander for the strips but you wouldn't necessarily need the spindle sander, you would be able to sand the curves once they are laminated, by hand.