Kev Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 1 hour ago, Jamie said: Ive dont that trick a few times in the past with good old yellow glue and it does a nice job. I have some ca glue showing up this week as I was out of it. Will do a test run like you mentioned. Good advice! Do the test on the under side of the table. Perfect test piece. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Posted June 16, 2020 Author Share Posted June 16, 2020 I’m torn on how to cut the through mortise. How would you guys approach it? It’s 1”x3” x 1 1/2 deep. I messed around with my hcm tonight, will have to make some auxiliary fences to make it work. Don’t think it will give me the cleanest cut. Plan b would be to use a forstner bit and clean it up with a chisel. Plan c is to make a template for the the plunge router with a guide bushing, clean up the corners with a chisel. Would probably stop short from going through and come back with a flush trim bit from opposite side. I’m nervous about doing the chisel work for some reason. I do have a new set if marples that I have gone through and sharpened. Is there an approach that I am missing or should be considering? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenskye (Bryan) Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 I would probably do the forsner bit and chisel clean up. Are you wedging the tenons? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Posted June 16, 2020 Author Share Posted June 16, 2020 22 minutes ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said: I would probably do the forsner bit and chisel clean up. Are you wedging the tenons? Yes they will be wedged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 I’d go with plan B as well. Check and double check your measurements and use a marking knife to strike your lines. And obviously work from both sides in with your chisels. A practice cut or two will cut the pucker by more than one half. Good luck. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Posted June 16, 2020 Author Share Posted June 16, 2020 1 minute ago, Coop said: I’d go with plan B as well. Check and double check your measurements and use a marking knife to strike your lines. And obviously work from both sides in with your chisels. A practice cut or two will cut the pucker by more than one half. Good luck. I’m thinking there is going to have to be a practice cut made. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 You haven’t made the tenons on the stretchers yet, have you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 Actually, if they are to be wedged, it doesn’t matter as much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 7 hours ago, Jamie said: I’m torn on how to cut the through mortise. How would you guys approach it? It’s 1”x3” x 1 1/2 deep. I messed around with my hcm tonight, will have to make some auxiliary fences to make it work. Don’t think it will give me the cleanest cut. Plan b would be to use a forstner bit and clean it up with a chisel. Plan c is to make a template for the the plunge router with a guide bushing, clean up the corners with a chisel. Would probably stop short from going through and come back with a flush trim bit from opposite side. I’m nervous about doing the chisel work for some reason. I do have a new set if marples that I have gone through and sharpened. Is there an approach that I am missing or should be considering? I'd like to offer a different option... Why not use the HCM to get your 2 ends of the mortise and then connect the dots with a plunge router? Should reduce chisel clean up and would IMO be quicker. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 When I did my table I did your Plan C. When you do your chisel work the show side of the through mortise is important, the back side not so much because it will be hidden by the should and cheeks of the tenon. So you do the show side for the good fit. The back side can actually be a fuzz wider to make an easier fit with large pieces like table parts. When you cut your kerf for the wedges remember to drill a hole at the end of the kerf to keep it from splitting further when you drive the wedges. 6 hours ago, Kev said: Why not use the HCM to get your 2 ends of the mortise and then connect the dots with a plunge router? If I owned one of these I would have done it this way. 1 Quote "Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not; remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." - Epicurus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Posted June 17, 2020 Author Share Posted June 17, 2020 16 hours ago, Kev said: I'd like to offer a different option... Why not use the HCM to get your 2 ends of the mortise and then connect the dots with a plunge router? Should reduce chisel clean up and would IMO be quicker. Great idea! Going to do a practice round on that method. 23 hours ago, Coop said: Actually, if they are to be wedged, it doesn’t matter as much. Wedged......I think we are thinking differently. The wedge I’m thinking will be a loose tenon drove through the stretcher to wedge it tight. Will be removable to take the table apart. 10 hours ago, Chet said: When I did my table I did your Plan C. When you do your chisel work the show side of the through mortise is important, the back side not so much because it will be hidden by the should and cheeks of the tenon. So you do the show side for the good fit. The back side can actually be a fuzz wider to make an easier fit with large pieces like table parts. When you cut your kerf for the wedges remember to drill a hole at the end of the kerf to keep it from splitting further when you drive the wedges. I was thinking that tonight on the show side. Need to reassemble the legs to determine a side. Good advice. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted June 17, 2020 Share Posted June 17, 2020 No we were thinking along the same line but I was thinking of a glue up that would require a tighter fit over all. Chet is spot on. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Posted June 18, 2020 Author Share Posted June 18, 2020 Cut the mortises for the stretchers tonight. Did use kevs idea with the hcm and router. Did work pretty darn well I must say! Thanks you guys for all your feedback. I will admit that I am way more comfortable and confident using power tools. Did do a practice run with the drill bit and chisel method, with it being oak and being 1 1/2 thick I didn’t have very good results. Just to impatient I think. did cut in on the backside about a 1/8-1/4 to prevent blowout. Nice thing with the Bosch guide is the micro adjustment. Made getting it all lined up pretty easy. With the mortises being centered just had to run it on each side. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted June 18, 2020 Share Posted June 18, 2020 Nice! Would have been a good task for dual edge guides on the router as well. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted June 19, 2020 Share Posted June 19, 2020 Sweet looking rectangular holes in the legs? ? Good job bud! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Posted June 22, 2020 Author Share Posted June 22, 2020 Got the stretcher tenons cut and fit. Cut the shoulder on the table saw with the miter gauge and fence. Left them long as there will be a few curves cut in the tusk. Didn’t quite have that shape layer out before the tenons were dust so gave myself around 1 inch of play with the length on both ends. Cut the rest of tenon out on the bandsaw. Could not believe that I got as clean and true of cut off a bandsaw. They did take a little fine tuning with a block plane and chisels. Did have them fit a little loose as they will have to come apart and be put back together after finishing. Had to put it all together and set it on the table. I also set it on the floor and sat at it. Wanted to get a feel for how the tusks would be. Thought that they would be sticking out to far and would bang the knee on them. After looking at it did make a slight change to the tusk to buy some more room. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted June 22, 2020 Share Posted June 22, 2020 Miti fine work there Jamie! I can’t believe you let your neighbor park his Ram in your driveway! There goes the neighborhood! ? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted June 22, 2020 Share Posted June 22, 2020 Nice job! Glad the new BS earned its keep! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted June 25, 2020 Share Posted June 25, 2020 Very nice!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Posted June 27, 2020 Author Share Posted June 27, 2020 Sorry am a little late on sharing, life has been busy with softball games and practice. Worked on the stretchers the other night. Was a little concerned on how I was going to cut the mortises for the wedges, tried it on the hcm. Worked out well. The problem that I had was the mortise was 3” deep and the hcm chisel could cut about 2 1/2”, ended up just flipping the stretchers over and cutting from the backside. The hcm I have has quite a bit of slop in the head, this might be a tool on the upgrade list. Never really used one much and can see it being a tool that could be really handy. Cleaned up the mortise with some files and a chisel. Made a small shooting block to aid with the 5 degree angle on the mortise. I made a template for the shape on the tusk and cut it off with a jigsaw. Turned my attention to the top as I wanted to get it prepared to go back through the wide belt. Cut the ends and used your guys trick on the ca glue to fill the gap. Really happy how that worked! Had to try a little stain on it to see the results. Did end up leaving work a little early yesterday and got all the parts run through the wide belt. The shop that I took it to was the same that had the cnc and sander as before. The cost for them doing that for me came to a total of around $100. I think it was well worth it! Thinking I might set the unfinished top in my house for a couple of weeks before I finish sand, just to let it acclimate and to see if I can get some of the movement out. With it being super humid here the top is probably as wide as it will ever get. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 Really coming along nicely! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 Some good progress there. 1 Quote "Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not; remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." - Epicurus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenskye (Bryan) Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 Looking good Jamie! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Posted July 7, 2020 Author Share Posted July 7, 2020 Got the table base all sanded and glued up. Put a 1/8 round over on most of the edges. Took quite a bit of time to get the parts all sanded. Maybe it just felt that was as it has been very hot and humid around here. Had to get a dehumidifier running in the shop as it was about 68% humidity. The problem with running the dehumidifier is that it acted as a heater. The shop is pretty unpleasant to be in with it like that, hopefully the weather pattern will break in a week or so. Did add a old furnace fan that I got for free from a buddy. Amazing how much air those things move. When I built the shop I had some outlets put in higher up and the bottom half of them runs on a switch. Makes it nice for this fan to just hit a switch to turn it on and off. Did get the wedges cut and have a little fine tuning to do to them yet. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 Looking great! looks like it’s time for some ac in the shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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