Bushwacked

So I figure it’s time for my son to get a desk in his room since he’s about to wrap up kindergarten and start to get actual homework and stuff. just a quick sketch of the overall look I am thinking about … (Not sure why the sketch wont upload not sideways, tried flipping it and saving again haha) This will have some CnC work in it as well ... the #99 (his sports number) and bobcat logo ... For the legs, I was thinking bigger rectangle type legs, like this: (could not find wood versions quickly) The top it might be a little hard to figure out what is going but basically like 3 cubbies to push stuff back in and then a little top to store stuff as well. Something along the lines of the below cubby build out: Questions I have at the moment ... 1) Wood ?? I was thinking White Oak top and walnut legs. Will that combo look off? Main reason for going white oak was the butcherblock build I have left over 6/4 and it actually looked better than I thought for Oak .. never really worked with white oak before. I am curious how the combo would actually go together though ... I am not sure I have seen much white oak/walnut out there and maybe thats for good reason haha. I could always just go the standard Maple, but was trying to do something a little different. 2) Legs and stability ... I am not sure which orientation the legs should go for best stability ... does this drawing make sense?

technically no .. I was just going with less reduction in suction going down to a 4" line .. also bought all the 6" DC (the red stuff) for the CnC so I would need to replace that as well with a 4" option ...

no kidding!! that piece cost almost more than all my other DC all together haha LOL! ... this is so generous, but I feel I would be taken advantage of you and wouldnt want to impose 🙂

completely agree ... my issue though is by the time I turn the hard pipe down and get everything ready, when the motor runs under it the hose gets all jammed up. There is only about 3' or so to the downturn which isnt enough to let the hose move freely and not push on it in weird ways. I need 12' ceiling haha! this would be interesting to test, however I would need a 6" and the only 6" is $350 ... lol

it is a little loose because the motor is not all the way front left, when it is in the front it is decently tight. It gets real loose when its over on the right side of the table ... I just dont have enough room above the CnC to make it work better

I think I finally got the CnC dust collection good. Just need to test it cutting …. it might have gotten squirly in there haha

thats rough to hear Jamie! That was going to be the saw I got if I ever got rid of my Dewalt. I guess I will need to rethink it when/if the time comes. Will definitely be interested in how the Makita works for you ... I am pretty sure TWW did a miter saw review on that and the bosch awhile back ... I think he found the new makita slider wasnt square either ... if its the video I am thinking of ...

ok ... so just trying to sum all this great info up in my head ... In theory ... the below would have been the best potential install?? Blue: Wood Movement Red: Fig 8's that could rotate with the wood movement. So, just installing the fig 8's on the sides would give this the best possible opportunity to let the wood expand/contract without hampering it .. while still giving it enough hold down strength to not move ?? Is that pretty close to what yall are saying?

LOL! No offense, but me too 🙂 So as far as Coops comment on elongating the Fig 8 holes, they kinda had to be anyway since this cabinet was only 1/2". These do have a good amount of swing from side to side because they could not be set into the wood very deep. .... Hopefully this helps? I am interested to hear the theory on why not putting any fig 8's in the face frame. My thought was that was the place the make sure I had some there because that was actually solid wood and would hold the most intact and not wiggle loose. I do agree, if this thing moves a lot, then there probably wasnt anything I could have done to help it not break something. It did sit in the garage for about a week or so with the stain and some sort of finish process on it before being installed. I would assume if this thing is going to go completely south, it would probably happen in the first year of its expansion/contractions moves?

not thinking it will? Any guess on how long until it wiggles loose?

Well got it installed. The cab was 1/2 ply so I went into that … sounds like that may have been a bad idea?? the face frame was poplar so hopefully that helps keep things tight over the years …

So just just 3/4 ply strips right? About 1 1/2 - 2” wide?

Hmmm I didn’t look close enough to notice if it was MDF or not … as far as strips go I’m not sure there’s enough room on the sides or front to install them. assuming silicone would be a bad idea as it would restrict movement too much. Maybe a couple 1” long strips of silicone in the corners and some screws with figure 8s … if it’s not MDF. if it’s MDF am I SOL for attaching it with strips?

Oh one other thing … while I was test fitting and scribing…. I noticed his cabinets we 1/2” thick … do I need to get a smaller screw to go into his cabinets? Like a #6 or something? also for installing. Was thinking for those figure 8s to putting 3 in the back 2 on the sides and 3 on the front … Is that enough or overkill?

Working through the finish now … I wasn’t sure about my high endurance and if it was still good?? Looked fine but the lid went to crap and after I opened it I couldn’t get it shut again. so found this minwax stuff with ultra flat … never heard of it so figured why not .. so far 2 coats applied and can’t even tell.. when they say ultra flat they are not lying haha. Really impressed with it so far!

well thats sounds really cool .. wonder why they got rid of it? As for this basic can ... have you messed with any of them and would you own one?

ya I normally lay mine on the floor or in the driveway with a rock on top ... however with the kids being more active and the wife paying attention like she does, I have noticed rags moved or wadded up and stuff and not sure I can trust they wont end up tossed in a trash can wet for now ... So just looking for something a little extra maybe if it makes sense

figured I’d ask here before I buy since we got several in / used to be in the safety biz … is this thing worth the money? Also why does it say empty nightly? Those rags are not dried yet so why would you dump them? Is it to CYA themselves in case rags catch fire and burn down the shop? Isnt that exactly what this is supposed to prevent? Justrite Just Rite 6 Gallon Oily Waste Can, Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DSKBXE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZG4F84XPE1QYZTP5VGTH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

thanks! a tshirt, from those bag of tshirts you can buy that are cut up

Got everything sanded and edges rounded over and stained. here is the stain color info … hard to get a picture of the true color haha … you can get an idea though of it

I mean really ... I am with Kev on lowering TVs ... I found this Rollable TV from LG that is coming to the US, rolls up into a nice space saving box for you... maybe the only downside is they are asking $100k, buy once cry once .. right? 😁

thanks!!

amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083N2WSX1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ok I still have plenty of that but wasnt sure how water based top coat would work with oil based stain ... never tried it before

Now that spring break is over and the family is back in town… got over there today to scribe it … overall… seemed straight forward with just the walls not square but they were at least straight’ish so my scribe lines were straight lines and not wavy. the contractor that did the shelves above it used this stuff to give it a greyish type look to it. So now need to take a look at what type of top coat I should use with it. Need a flat finish that hopefully won’t yellow the wood too bad?? anyone have experience with that haha