Tmize

Your not building just one project tho it is 7. I read this a post on here nearly everyday an enjoy it but I always forget to like it. Great build along an awesome work

Since a few of us have this now on here. FYI the adjuster set screw on the base that takes the slop out on the top table that controls the forward an back movement of the fence. This set screw will loosen up an cause the so movement under pressure. So a drop of lock tite may be needed. Had some of my mortises get off a lil bit on the saw bench. It’s just shop furniture so who cares but I would have been pissed if it happened on a real project.

Just a quick update pic. Got one coat of poly on the top.

Her favorite is that sharpie I’m can never remember where I laid it down?

So a quick little bench to use around the shop an to go with my hand saws. It built it with some left over maple an popular from the roubo build so it matches the bench. It uses several different joints from drawbored m&t, angled bird mouth like a half lap an pegged joints. The legs splay 10 degrees. I cleaned it up some an put a coat of danish oil on it but I didn’t put much work into it. I’m sure my 3 yr old will be coloring on it tomorrow when my back is turned like everything else in my shop. The joint connecting the top was a interesting joint but should be stupid strong for it use

That’s a nice one should do you well

?‍♂️

The surface plate will do just fine. Do go to machinist on how flat can you make it. Remember we are working with wood a object that will continue to move long after it’s been cut down. What I mean by that is one degree change in temperature or humidity the wood can move .01. So why try an mill to that kind of tolerance if it will not be the same by the end of the day. I think on nearly all my planes I polished the sole more than made sure it was with in nasa or machinist tolerances. The front around the mouth an the back edge needs to be in the same plane tho. One thing that I know for sure will mess with its performance is if the sole has any twist in it. On milling those red oak boards get a straight edge( an 4’ level is fine)an find the high spots first an hit them with a shorter plane. Once you have them close to the rest on the board then bring out the longer planes much easier work.

If you are interested in maybe getting into a western saw for don’t much more than the jap saw on me I may have a deal on a veritas dt saw

No way I could have drill them all straight I could have only gotten lucky two or three before I blew something out

Being a mostly power tool guy I would go with the imperial size chisels. Now if you move to more handtool style woodworking the exact size doesn’t matter because you pull the measure from the tool instead of the ruler. I’ve never used a dt guide but from what I hear his guide is one of the best in the market. Now for the saw I learned on a western type saw so again no help on the jap saw. A western saw will be more expensive even if you found a cheap new one it would take a lot of work an experience to get it to cut correctly. A good marking knife to me is a must for layout. I use the narex lay out knife for most all my joinery but for dovetails I use LV marking knife https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/marking-tools/69870-veritas-workshop-striking-knife?item=05D2005 much thinner profile.

From the pics alone I like the the look a little proud. Gives the door a shadow line.

Damn glad your ok. We sure can help you spend your money on a new tool?

Pine is not bad to work with. It does dent just by looking at it. The early an late wood is a major difference in hardness. Sharp blades is a must especially chisels. When staining use a gel stain to keep from botching or do a wash coat of clear shellac first. Pine at my lumber yard is expensive. If they want the knotty look I would do knotty alder cheaper to there. Another option at the box store which is more forgiving staining an workability is Douglas fir

That would be a great setup. Will need something to keep them flat. This would be a decent one. Now will it be flat to nasa tolerance nope but it will it be fine for woodworking. https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/sharpening/stones/110009-pride-abrasive-truing-stone-for-water-stones?item=70M4100&utm_source=free_google_shopping&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=shopping_feed&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInOHgnsWh7QIVJeeGCh2SrweCEAQYCSABEgKC6PD_BwE

Happy thanksgivings to everyone.

The CA glue an sawdust trick will save a lot of heart ache. It’s probably the best trick I’ve learned in the hobby so far

Great job on the coffee table. The repair just disappears.

I’m just the opposite I like the sanding sponges. I use just the 3m 320 grit ones from the borg store. I get the ones with the acute sharp corners.

10 degrees isn’t bad just looked steeper in the photos. I’ve done them a couple times the angles really make you think about what you are doing.

There is no fast way when doing angled tenons that I have found. Question tho with the angle so sharp on a short tenon is there any problem with short grain? Oh great job on hand cutting the shoulder.

Little thing I’ve tried I read it some where. When sanding the sole flat. I use plate glass as a reference surface. Lay the sand paper down put a playing card down in the center of the strip between sand paper an the glass. It helps from making the toe and heel higher than the mouth area banana shape you hear about from people surfacing by hand.

Leave the photos already inserted in the post an delete them from the uploaded box

The combination of all the photos is to big to upload at once. If I’m uploading a few pics at one time I will downsize them. You are uploading over 2 MB’s at one time. Most forums have this restriction. Upload to the limit an attach them to your post. Then delete them an upload the rest. Or just edit a resize them smaller in whatever media editing program you have.

You got that thing tuned up an running yet?