Tmize

I’ve never really had a problem with them cupping til I get to under 3/8” thick. For boxes tho it usually stock that has been in my shop for awhile. I normally resaw it then hand plane to finished size instead of planing it all to size if that helps.

Yea mine is still smooth an it’s 20 yrs old. They good solid machines. I’m about due for another set of blades. I keep looking at the Byrd head replacement for it. I always just pass an get another set straight blades instead tho I actually thought about it the other day just randomly. I’ll think about it I really don’t have anything spectacular to show just a dark basement with some tools an water heater ?. I’d hate for y’all to see the massive CNC I print all my parts out with an just lay some hand planes an saws around it for stage presents?

I have looked at building the tool chest also it would be a fun project

I like building boxes they seem to be my fall back between projects.

I got a wild hair to try out a mitre thru dovetail. This cherry was a left over from the tv console I built last year. It’s some very pretty wood. Problem is I remember this being awful chippy an this time it proved the same. So my dovetails did not turn out as clean as I had hoped. I left all the lay out lines on this one. I go back an forth on if I like the joinery line left shown or the clean look all smoothed over. The miter was not that much more difficult. Now I will say that when fitting the joint experience does help a lot. When testing the joint knowing where you need to take material is crucial. The smallest amount in the wrong area creates a big gap somewhere else. To be honest the carved finger catch was the most stressful part.

The turns of the handle sounds right. I have the older version of this planer. An I normally do a 1/4 turn per pass. It will not pull into the machine much more than 5/8 -3/4 of a turn.

Sure do it’s called my wife. She tells me want she wants and where it will go. I design it to not fall apart an measure to fit the space then I free hand draw it out on graph paper to scale. We both like shaker/country style so I google some images but most is design on the fly. I may sketch up a certain detail or joinery I’m concerned with but that is about it. I pull my cut list from the sketch an bdft.

Yes sir you are correct. If I had thought about it I should have put a curve in the bottom rails an that would have fixed that. Live an you learn.

Yes just a chamfer on the table saw. Give a longer bevel than router bits

Well if you are going to start being the grammar police I’m out ?

Yea that’s what I was thinking anyway. Just fishing if anyone had a better idea on a way to hiding it since shoe mold wouldn’t like right.

Here is the final photos installed. I do have a question? I have a gap at the bottom right that is just enough to bug me maybe a 1/8”. Normally with built in casework I would run a piece of trim around the bottom to hide the uneven floor. I don’t think trim would look right in this situation. I thought about caulking it. We are replacing the floors in the next couple years so don’t know how I want to do this. I will remove the bookcase an run the new floors under it I may be able to shim that spot level when I do it.

Welcome to the forums

Hey Zex welcome to the forum. Bryan an BW beat me to it. Budget the most deciding factor an what will you be doing with it. I use mine to resaw an straight line rip 90% of the time.

I have the HF version I bought the power tec 1 micron filter bag an it helped the air quality issue but it has bogged the it down now. So I guess this is my next option. Give us a update later on how it does

Dowel reinforced will definitely give it more strength. I’ve luckily never had to repair a joint like that but I think you are right it would be a nightmare

I use tb 3 for most everything. I have know first hand with this but I’ve been reading a lot about chair building lately. Almost all chair builder recommend hide glue or liquid hide glue for at least the aprons an seat area because these area have the most stress an hide glue is easier to repair the joint down the road.

Same here with the price I’ve got two gramercy holdfast an couple of the rockler ones also. They are work great. Oh yes very high tech?

So far I don’t have any problems. I’ve been looking for a reason to try out LV post clamp thingy https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/workshop/workbenches/benchtop-accessories/57059-veritas-surface-clamp?item=05G1901. So if the holdfast don’t do the job I may just order me one of them.

I always find out after it’s glued up. Speaking of that are you using pva glue on these chairs?

The replacement led lamps with the built in drivers are proven more reliable an longer life span. Basically you will bypass the fluorescent ballast an run the 120v straight to the tombstones from what I can remember polarity is not an issue. I’m going from memory here from about 4 years ago. So read the instructions. Lumens is brightness measured X distance away from the source. So the higher lumens to greater light output. The K or kelvin is the color. 5000k is the medium color range for the most part at what most refer to as daylight. Personally I like 6-7k inside the house. You get what the sale pitch today is as true color. Which means you don’t get the yellowing affect on whites or a premistaken deeper color in dark tones. Wattage isn’t really an issue with LEDs. The factory built led fixtures will be a lower wattage an possibly a higher lumen rating than the tube replacement. Your lighting circuits will be more than adequate to hold the swap over an will save some electricity. It will not change your power bill most likely. All that to say this get the highest lumen an the correct color that you want in your shop. In my shop I run T5 HO fluorescent at 5000 lumens each the color is 4000k. I’m not a big fan of the color but I got them off a job so they was free. I just haven’t ever got around the changing the lamps. It only really ever messes with my eyes if I’m putting a oil finish on a lighter colored wood oak,maple etc. Hope this helps some

Nice feature looks good

I drilled a couple hold fast holes in it last night. They hold fairly well in the 1 3/4” top. I got a handful more eBay saws headed my way for restoration so the bench should get a lot of use here soon.

I’m back sorry my bookmarked I had on the site changed so I figured it was still under the relocation. I all set back up now

Thought I remembered it was 8 chairs but I only counted 7 in the pic. Then I know most chair builders build a spare. So I thought it may have been a set of 6 with a spare