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Tmize
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Posts posted by Tmize
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Aren’t they the same company that bought bridge city tools?
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To me the major upgrade to this machine over the 14/12 or the current grizzly is the foot brake. I know some don’t see this as a big deal but I know in the year I’ve had mine 14/12 I’ve wished I could stop it quickly to make a fence adjustment real quick. Yes more power is always great to. Just a side not you can change the tap up on most motors now to convert them to 240v from 120v. I know my rigid ts an Laguna bandsaw you can.
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Are you staining these or just doing a clear coat on the red oak?
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3 hours ago, Jones Custom Woodwork said:
Got a festool systainer and a bunch of different domino's now that i have a domino, I also received a 1281 woodpeckers square, the 96" storystick pro, and the rip flip system for my sawstop, definitely was on the nice list this year, the crappy part is i have to wait til possibly February or march for the rip flip since its backordered, but its worth it
Wow now that is some Christmas loot. I’ve looked at the story stick pro a couple times just never seem to pull the trigger. Oh by the way welcome to the forums.
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Like my post earlier said Christmas gifts to myself I’ve gotten in the past couple weeks
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That’s us we give the kids presents an we just kinda get what we want as the year goes. If it counts I got a veritas skew rabbet plane from eBay a week or so ago an few saws I’m refurbishing. Other than that my dad gave me some cash
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Merry Christmas to all
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Welcome looking forward to seeing your projects.
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I have nothing againest pocket screws an will use them from time to time. I just enjoy doing joinery is the only reason I do m&t face frames.
On 12/21/2020 at 10:05 PM, Jamie said:I’m a face frame first guy. Quick easy way is dare I say pocket holes. You never see the back of a face frame unless you are guys like us who stick their heads inside if cabinets.
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Well thanks that’s good to know. I keep saying I want to take some classes but I always put it off. I may try this way out this time an see how I like it.
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That’s strange I normally build it the other way around. I build the case first then build the face frame a fuss bigger then flush trim or sand flush. The reason I do that is it easilier to pull my marks straight from the case for the frame. It helps with any dado shelve alignment you can adjust the frame instead of having to re dado a shelve to line up.
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8 minutes ago, Kev said:
Well..... You could certainly do the M&T and it wouldn't be considered wrong but, it's also probably not needed for a face frame. Especially on a painted project.
With that said, I'll also admit that I tend to think in terms of the quickest way to complete a project because of filming. Certainly nothing wrong with enjoying the journey and practicing some skills
See that’s kinda where I am now. I work production speed at work. Do it the fast most cost efficient way that will turn out a good product. An when I got into woodworking I wanted a way to slow down so that I didn’t have to think about man hours an profit. I already do that all day long. Not that it is a bad thing I do it for the process not the end result necessarily. But I have a very impatient wife so I tend to do her quick out of the blue project faster just to keep her happy. So I’m torn I may just go ahead an do plywood sure will save a lot of edge glue ups considering I need 15” wide panels.
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29 minutes ago, Kev said:
Just my 2.. If it's going to be painted, go with the ply where you can. Now, the bench portion probably lends itself better to hardwood for strength and shape-ability.
Yes the top will be solid wood. Based on the size of the piece I’m think a full 4/4 to 5/4 thick. It will have a frame also so I guess I can at least get to do some m&t ?
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So I got another project request yesterday from the wife. An I’m trying to figure out if I should build most of it out of plywood. It’s going to be a bench with some built ins cubbies under it for shoes. I know it’s a simple an straight forward build with plywood an I know that would be the economic way to do it. I hate plywood. I know some places it’s the best choice for wood movement or whatever reason. Of course this will painted so color match isn’t a issue. So how do you guys make the decision on to use plywood or real wood?
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Welcome look forward to seeing some projects
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Yep normal stuff. An most places around require two checks also at the same time made out to the thing. One check is application fee then a second for the permit amount an a third if you don’t have a business license in that city yet.
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Agreed 100% an I work for a contractor an I’ve been threatened 3-4 times that they would put me in jail for no permit. For work they felt was more than just a quick service call.
It’s a power trip for most of them hey look at what I can do. I know why we have to have inspections some people do dangerous an hideous work just to turn a quick buck. But the rest of us that do it right an respectful job still have to be harassed by the stuck up government officials that don’t have enough credentials to pick up trash for a living. Sorry it’s a touchy subject for me lately.-
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That’s a combination you don’t see much but I like it. It should be used more often
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Wow good job I don’t have that mind power when it comes to angles. My wife makes fun of me anytime I have to do an angle other than 45 an 90. I just sit there all dazed an confused. Way to much thinking going on. You can pull it off tho those sure are some nice chairs
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Great job. Instead of a brown paper I’ve been using some white scotch brite pads I found at the borgs.
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Very nice fun project with mom.
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10 minutes ago, Kev said:
I didn't.. It all felt pretty solid to me so, I didn't see the need to do anything with it other than the normal woodworking stuff.
If it had been spongy how would you handle it. Was I on the right track thinking CA an epoxy?
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Do you stabilize the splatted maple for using it like this. I don’t have much experience with it but the little I do it is soft/spongy. Do you harden it with CA or epoxy?
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Most of the time my drawer sides are 3/8” on normal size drawer. I’ve gotten away with 3/16 on some small drawers before. I normally will only use qs or rs for that tho. You are correct Chet have to take it slow on removal. That is why I saw it an take it down the last 1/32” by hand.
Magnet question
in General Discussion
Posted
Could you put a cleat down on the bottom of the down for it to sit on. Similar to French cleat just backwards on the bottom to help hold the weight of the door. The shear weight of a hickory door would be a lot for 6-8 magnets. But if you had it resting on something the magnets would only have to hold it to the blower not the weight of the door.