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  1. Well, she's as done as she's going to get! I've got help coming tomorrow afternoon to help get it in the house..lol. I'll install the top once it's in the house. It was all I could do to lift one end to get it up on the blocks for finishing.
    8 points
  2. Final check with glass and rounded corners .. got my figure 8s figured out wiped down with mineral spirits and ready for finish tomorrow.
    7 points
  3. Started off rough milling and gonna let it sit a day or 2 before final milling. nothing super cool to look at haha. But the project has kicked off!
    7 points
  4. Sorry for not being around much lately. Took a little family trip and have been playing catch up since. We went to Rocky Mountain national park to take in the sites. Was a great time! Only work that I’ve gotten done on the cabinets is getting all the doors and face frames finish sanded. Took quite a bit of time to get through them all. I believe it was right around 7 hours of sanding time. This photo was taken after about 2 solid hours of sanding, the cart on the left was the progress. Will start staining as soon as I get the 1/4” ply skins cut and sanded.
    7 points
  5. Well, the final video is currently pushing to YT. As it will take several hours, I'll update the private viewing in the morning to include all the videos. There will be 6 videos in total and close to 3 hours of finished video. In the meantime, here's the nightstands in the room with the bed!
    7 points
  6. As you all know, I lost my dad and my brother late last year. My brother asked that all of his ashes be spread in Hawaii but, my sister and I needed urns for my dad. I had a really nice piece of spalted maple that I had been saving for a special project and some of that really nice walnut from Tennessee - Thanks @Spanky- They always go great together. Thanks to @Chet for the beautiful remembrance plates for the front of each one! I did not film this build but, will answer any questions you might have.
    7 points
  7. I will store my new branding iron in one of my tool drawers but it seems like an item the could get banged or nicked up so today I built a box out of some leftover poplar I had. I used box joints and a sliding top. When I cut the top, I screwed up my measurement by and inch and because I was using scraps for the project I didn't have another piece that would work so I added a piece of wenge on the end as a pull. I did a couple of coats of blonde de-waxed shellac that I had a small amount of left in the jar. The wenge is rounded on the end, then I coved the top with a rasp and rounded the bottom also with the rasp. Kind of hard to see on th dark wood.
    7 points
  8. Well the kitchen was officially finished at 6:30 pm last night. It took 51 days and mostly with out surprises but there were a couple of things that added to the excitement. One was some water damage around the sink and dishwasher but I was expecting this as we had some dishwasher problems about three years ago and this required some subfloor replacement. The other was when the counter tops were installed I had to move the plumbing around under the sink to line up with the new drain locations and the way the new garbage disposal installed. This was no big deal, I just don't like plumbing. Just because I am at the age where I just don't want to work on my hands and knees any more I hired a neighbor thats a floor installer to do the floor. This served two purposes, I didn't want to do it and he hasn't had much work during the pandemic. The guy did top notch work, even the edges against the wall that were going to be covered by base board were straight as an arrow. The other thing that we farmed out was the counter tops, just not an amateur type project for the product that we selected. Everything else we did ourselves. We went with painted cabinets, I did a review of the product that we used in the Shop Tools and Reviews forum. I made all new doors and drawer fronts, Shaker Style with Blum hinges and then in the peninsula I opened up the back side to get better use of the space and made and installed sliding doors, Hinged doors wouldn't work because of they're location. These first four pictures, with me standing in the same location to take them are before and after. Before After Before After The counter tops are DuPont Corian, it is an impermeable product so it doesn't stain or hold any kind of bacteria, mold or residue. It is a product that is approved for commercial food services. One of the cool features is if you select one of their sinks, when it is installed it is part of the counter, there is no seams or lip to gather gunk. We paid extra for a higher back splash and the paid extra for the coved back splash. You can't see any of the seams in the counter. The section with the sink they brought in, in two pieces, I watched them do the work and I still can't see without really analyzing it were the seam is. The sink and a view of the coved back splash. The new opening and doors on the peninsula. And the finished drawer bank. The first picture in this thread was the day I was installing metal slides to replace the wood I had originally done.
    7 points
  9. Thanks guys!! yes I went with a film topping as it had a cool pattern however it was put on only with water and static?? I’m not sure how well it will hold up. I wouldn’t recommend the film on it either and I won’t use it again. It was easy to install and everything I just don’t think it is going to last long and not bubble. A couple other pics… it was super hard to get the texture from the film in picture
    6 points
  10. Sorry got a little busy with sport seasons kicking off … we got 2 soccers, a baseball and a softball season haha. We kinda busy. I will take a few better pics tomorrow when I get some free time. Here is a quick and dirty one though.
    6 points
  11. Well, after spending $70 per gallon for two gallons of Benjamin Moore paint, $45 for primer and $80 for glaze and tint, I believe I could have made this from cherry and I would have been more satisfied but not what the “doctor ordered”. It’s functional and what she wanted but most of all, it’s finished and it’s out of my shop. And yes, priorities are in the correct order this time! 😀 i really like the Blum undermount soft close glides and the Blum European self closing hinges.
    6 points
  12. On to door assembly......start out by hand sanding the mill marks on the raised panels. Not a fun process to do and only way I’ve found is to do it by hand. I can’t seem to find my hand sanding pad, I believe an 8 year old was last seen using it. I just use a piece of sticky back paper folded in half to do this set. Get a little hot to hold at times. I decided to pre stain the door edges. Have never done this step before but after talking to my buddy at the cabinet shop they have switched to this method after having some door panels shrink and it leaving a line of unstained material. With as dark of stain that is going on these cabinets I thought it might not hurt. Only staining the fronts. I did manage to find a space ball alternative, found some weather striping that is 1/4 wide by 1/8 thick. Just cut it down to 1”-1 1/2” pieces. It is a little tricky being that it’s sticky on both sides. Found using a small flat head screwdriver helps seat it. One advantage to it being sticky is that it doesn’t fall out once it’s in place. First door went together fairly easily. I always leave the rails stick off the end of the stile to allow me to tap them flush. It is a lot easier to tap them flush than to try to tap them back out. Just not much to make contact with the hammer. Once they are flush I give them a light squeeze with the clamps and check for square. I did have to adjust every door just a hair to get them spot on. And here is my progress for the night. Takes quite a bit of time to go through all the steps. Doing them in small batches to break up the hand sanding. I decided against putting a pin nail in the back rail and just letting them cure in the clamps. Figured that by time the next batch is ready the glue will be set long enough.
    6 points
  13. Here's a final pic of the bed with a quilt that my wife made..
    6 points
  14. The nightstands are finished. I am real happy with the color on the finished product. I will try to get some better pictures in the house. I won't be starting the bed for a month or so, I have a number of things around the house that need attention. First on the list, starting tomorrow I need to move a fair amount of the shop out of the way for the new garage door to be installed Friday AM. Just as a point of interest here is one of the existing nightstands that I was copying.
    6 points
  15. Next thing I did was get the top on and trimmed it out with some shop made molding and added a banding detail around the case at the base and below the top drawer. There is one other detail I am adding. I am doing a faux through tenon with a pyramid design on top on the from two legs. I removed most of the waste with a forstner bit. Then I clamped my template and routed out the rest. Then leaving the template in place, I cleaned up the corners with a chisel. and it left me with this on the two front corners. By this time in the day I didn't feel like tackling the pyramids so I finished the day by spending an hour and a half hand sanding all the details on one of the nightstands... fun stuff,🙄 Shoptalk Live podcast helped it go a little better.
    6 points
  16. No it is pretty simple, you only have to mark out the mortise on piece if all you pieces are the same thickness like these web frames. If it is something like a leg and apron then you need to mark out on leg and one apron. You need one witness mark for the center of you mortise's width and the center of the mortises length. On the rail its on the end it looks like this. On the stile its on the side and looks like this. Then you clamp it in the mortiser, lining up the witness mark for the length of you mortise with the centerline on the mortiser itself. Then I have a piece that fits perfectly in the slot of the mortiser that has a centering line on it. Using this you adjust the top of the mortiser until the line lines up with the centerline on your piece of work for for the center of your mortises width. After you are setup like this all your other pieces just need a witness mark for the center of the mortise's length. You line it up un the center line of the mortiser, clamp it and go. Nothing else changes. In my thread about building this in the tips and techniques section I posted Morley's video and he probably explains it better.
    6 points
  17. Had some time today and got all the mortises done for the aprons, 32 in all. After that I used up some scraps to make the loose tenon stock.
    6 points
  18. After gluing up the leg blanks I cut some veneer to glue over the glue lines on the leg blanks. You can see the veneer on the top and bottom on this end view of the leg. Doing this gives you nice grain on all four sides of your leg and saves you having to buy thicker stock to make you legs from. After this I made up a jig to cut the dados in the legs for the web frames using the router. Squared up the dados with some chisels. Next up is the web frames.
    6 points
  19. Did a quick little cabinet stand for the drill press and mortiser over the weekend. Took just over a sheet of 3/4 acx ply and used a few hardware parts I had laying around in the shop. Goal was to make a home for the mortiser and get it off my shaper. That has been its home for the past couple months since I got it. Also to get the drill bit storage next to the drill press. Which in turn frees up a drawer in the outfeed table to make room for table saw blades and accessories. The cart I am replacing was a $1 auction find that has more than earned it’s keep. Just didn’t look very good, it help my spindle sander and drill press since my old shop. It’s a two sided cart with a couple drawers on the drill press side and one drawer on the mortiser side. The door opening holds my tenon cutting sled and spacers . Did find a parts try that I had in a cabinet that I cut down to fit in one of the drill press drawers that holds quite a few of my mixture of drill bits. Didn’t get a picture of it but can if anyone is interested in seeing it. Did not bolt down either tool yet as I am waiting to see if they need to be positioned differently.
    6 points
  20. Actually this would work on any size box if you wanted. I have also heard this referred to grain wrapping. First thing what I show here I learned while taking a class of Matt Kenney's, so the credit goes to him. You start out with you stock mill on both faces and both edges and you also want to true up the two ends. You don't want to do that down the road. You want to start with a perfect stick of wood. I mark mine up a lot to keep things straight. I put an "A" on one end, both sides and a "B" on the other end both sides. I also make "Fence Side" on one side and "Outside" on the other just because. Then I put one triangle on one edge and two on the other edge. Kind of towards the center. Then simple re-saw them. After running the through the planer or drum sander to clean them up, open then like a book at the ends. It doesn't matter which end in fact you want to try both to see which way gives you the grain pattern you want. With them laying open like this the inside faces will be the out side faces of the box. You want you lay out to look like this. Red lines being one piece and Blue lines being the other, you want to alternate you long and short pieces. You want you waste to be at opposite ends. Number 1 thru 8 on both sides of you cut lines. This will help you realign them after you cut and miter the pieces. Next you set the stop on you miter fence to whatever you long pieces are going to be. You will also need a scrap block of wood that is equal to the difference of you short pieces and long pieces. As an example, if you long ones are 12 inches and you short ones 7 inches you need you block to be 5 inches. For no particular reason I started my cuts on the blue board first, so I put the block against the stop and made the short cut. Then removed the block and make the cut for the long piece. Next I cut the long piece on the red board, put the block back and cut the short piece. I have a sled built just for cutting 45's like you need for boxes. It includes a stop block and a plexiglass strip over the business end, it helps keep your digits away from the blade, but I can still see my work. I take one of the long pieces and with the out side face, facing up, I line the top end with the very edge of the fence right were the 45 angle is. Once this is lined up, hold it there and move the stop block inplace at the opposite end. I did remember to lower the blade some before I started my cuts. The set up looks like this. Make the cut, turn it end for end and cut the other miter. Then do the second long piece. Put the scrap block you used with the miter gauge next to the stop block on he sled and cut you short pieces the same as the long ones above. The beauty of the scrap block is you don't have to make any changes to the setup of you miter gauge or sled to make any of your cuts. After everything is cut just reorient the piece according to numbers you marked on each side of you cut lines during lay out. Using blue tape, tape the seams from top to bottom. After they are all taped, turn it over carefully so the miters are facing up and apply glue to all the miter areas. You don't need to get crazy with the glue it's just a small box that isn't going to be under a lot of stress. Then just fold the corners all the way around and tape the last corner making sure it is aligned properly and pull the tape tight as you hold the corner in place. You should end up with four corners that look like this. I ended up with a bit of a gap at the bottom of this corner. This was the corner that I taped last and didn't pay full attention.
    6 points
  21. I always find this amusing as well. I mean do people really think that when I was 25 with 3 kids under 3 I could really afford Festool, Lie Nielsen, etc heck no but I still made a lot of things. Having said that i'm not 25 anymore have my shop pretty much where I want it and if I want to buy $500 router or plane, well I do and I for one don't feel a bit guilty about it ?
    6 points
  22. After the glue dried on the box, I started the gluing in the dividers. First I had to cut them to the final height, and don't you know, I didn't double check my fence and cut the first one to short. A little glue and tape and all is good. After I got the goof out of the way, I got back to getting the dividers in. After that was finished up I started laying out the small box parts. On these the grain will line up across the front, the two outside sides and across the back of the three small boxes. I cut the box fronts and backs to size using relative dimensioning because the center box was about a fat 1/32 of an inch wider then the other two. But the process is the same as the big box. After those were glued up I cut the lids to size. Then chamfered the lids and boxes back at the router table. This is where we are right now. I need to come up with a design for the lid handles next.
    6 points
  23. My Christmas present to me. Its not here yet, but I Grizzly tells me I should be able to pick it up next week.
    6 points
  24. “Santa” changed his mind and I was on the hook for a desk ASAP. So that’s why there isn’t too many pics. I’ll get a pic of the final tomorrow when I get it installed in her room.
    6 points
  25. Just cleaning up the last bit of scrap in the shop.. All maple and walnut. Amazing the color differences in both species!
    6 points
  26. Thanks Kev! Looking forward to participating! I have been working on Kev's outfeed table using his plans. I'll post some pics as I move along. I recognize a lot of the names here from WTO. I used lurk in the shadows and post there every once and while. Learned a lot over there. I switched over to the FB group since it was a bit easier to navigate. Here is a project I finished about 3 weeks ago. I try and do one shop project for every 3 "honey do" projects and the out feed table is a long over do project! Thanks!
    6 points
  27. Last minute gift for someone on our list we missed.. A little different than my normal design.. Sapele and Cherry, it's what I had in the shop..
    6 points
  28. Had to crank out a couple quick gifts.. Thought I'd try something new with one and stick to what I know with the other..
    6 points
  29. All done I think... tried out the brown bag method .. I believe @Coopuses? works well getting the dust nibs out I must say.
    6 points
  30. I got a wild hair to try out a mitre thru dovetail. This cherry was a left over from the tv console I built last year. It’s some very pretty wood. Problem is I remember this being awful chippy an this time it proved the same. So my dovetails did not turn out as clean as I had hoped. I left all the lay out lines on this one. I go back an forth on if I like the joinery line left shown or the clean look all smoothed over. The miter was not that much more difficult. Now I will say that when fitting the joint experience does help a lot. When testing the joint knowing where you need to take material is crucial. The smallest amount in the wrong area creates a big gap somewhere else. To be honest the carved finger catch was the most stressful part.
    6 points
  31. That's so this forum could be the first to say "Houston, we have a problem"...
    6 points
  32. Had to bore you guys one more time for a while. 2 coats of ARS and four coats of GF, HP satin. I picked up the glass yesterday and had to get a sneak view of how it will look. Next post will be in about 6 weeks, hopefully, when it is installed.
    6 points
  33. Dropping this week's video for you guys a little early.. Good to fall asleep to while you're in a food coma!
    6 points
  34. Think I figured out what I wanted for at least one of the side middle cabinets ... Should hold my Milwaukee drill and its attachments, 6 containers, mainly for screws and then a row of sandpaper boxes. Also, added another shelf in the upper cabinets to help out with storage. Doors will be coming sometime soonish I hope. I think after my coffee table build I will wrap those up. Also, all the doors are now inset, just need pulls on them too. Fancy door stops ?
    6 points
  35. I sure need no frost until about Christmas in order to get the tomatoes safely into canning and on blt’s. Got the first coat of ARS on one side of the door today. Also got the holes drilled for the hardware. I made a jig for the mortise for the whatever you call it. Worked out great. Measured a dozen times and cut and routed once.
    6 points
  36. Well, after 10 weeks, we finally got the building permit and the slab forming will start tomorrow. Although the door won’t be installed for a couple of months, I got the itch to start back working on it. I took it to the glass company yesterday for them to measure for the panes as it will have tempered glass, if they measure wrong, they buy it. Today, I mortised out for the three hinges using an inexpensive jig from Amazon. It worked great and even came with a carbide bit with bearing, all for less than $15. The only down side of the jig is the thickness which allows for the bearing to ride against. This didn’t allow me to use the hinge as a depth guide so I used some scrap wood and trial and error to get the correct depth. I cut the retaining strips with a bead on the show side. Due to the bead, I found that mitered corners looked better than butt joints. But, keeping Chet’s advice about replacement in case a pane gets broken, I made several extra pieces. Whether or not I can find them if it occurs, we’ll see. A coat of ARS on the trim pieces.
    6 points
  37. @Chet Grabbing another break...lol
    6 points
  38. I enjoy college football so I finally added a small TV in the shop so I can have the games on in the back ground. You know you have most of the tools you need when you start adding things like this.
    5 points
  39. We found out that we have some family coming in early for the wedding this morning. As they'll be here this afternoon, I needed to get a move on and assemble these a little sooner than I wanted but, they came out good.. They're done.. Just some video work left to do..
    5 points
  40. Took all day but, finally got the sanding done, defects worked, and the ARS on! I waited until the ARS was pretty dry to grab the pictures as everything looks good when the finish is glistening...lol
    5 points
  41. I know we talked about these some time back and I've had them in the shop for a while now.. Well, I finally broke one and took is for a test drive! My history with this countersink comes from my Air Force days and working in aluminum. I will say that they work really nicely in wood! Pros: They're micro adjustable so, you can really dial them in for the screws you're using and get really good repeatability. They're super easy to set up and lock in The plastic protective ring does not mar the wood. Cons: At about 90 bucks, they're a bit on the pricy side. Link You have to pilot drill prior to use making this a 2 step process. For me, if I were doing a project that was going to have a lot of screw heads showing, this would be my go to countersink in my shop.
    5 points
  42. I work on getting the gapping on my drawer fronts. I was looking for about 1/16 all the way around and then I was going to do a real small chamfer on all four edges. But as it turns out I had too many thumbs on each hand today and managed to drop and ding the edges on three of the six drawer fronts on the edge of my work bench. 😟 The fibers were to damaged to steam out on two so I ended up having to have a gap that ended up being a heavy 3/32. Now I would be afraid that a chamfer would make the gaps look to big so I think I am going to be stuck with just easing the edges with some sand paper and calling it good. This is what I have right now, nothing has been done to ease anything so far. Whats the group here think?
    5 points
  43. Ok had to run out to the shop and snap a few quick photos The drawer box cabinet and legs. Granted they are upside down. Box will be attached to the leg as well as having a through bolt into a threaded insert in the top. The top with a second coat of ars on it. Love how it popped the figure in the walnut!
    5 points
  44. I have never had a pin nailer but I am coming up on my current project were some parts will need a little something to hold things in place while the glue dries. I did a lot of researching and looking some at the reviews. I decided to get one from a company called Metabo. It got some of the best reviews from a number of different places. It was $89 on Amazon and $99 at Lowes. For the amount that I would use it, this was an attractive price. I went ahead and ordered through Amazon and it arrived Tuesday evening. Wednesday morning I gave it a test drive. I looks really well made has a nice balanced feel and is pretty light weight. But as soon as I started to test it there were problems. It wasn't sinking the pins below the surface. They say to set the pressure to between 65 and 100 psi. Well at 70 psi it was leaving 1/8 on an inch on a 1 inch pin sticking out. I adjusted the nose per instructions and nothing changed. After this I kept upping the pressure to 100 psi and it got better but still not right. At 100psi it still left the pin above the surface. Then I noticed that it was leaking oil from around the trigger area. So at this point I wiped it down and packaged it back up and shipped it back for a refund. I was really wanting to like this nailer and thinking and hoping that the leak was causing all the problems, I decided to give it one more try, something I don't usually do. I went to Lowes and picked up a second nailer, got it home tested it out. No Joy, it was better but it was still leaving them proud of the surface so back it went and I moved on. I decided I was going to have to put more money into this purchase and I spent some more time looking on line and a lot of them that I would have gone for are, like a lot of things right now, are on back order. I found a Grex P635 at my Woodcraft store, but still they only had one so I asked if they would hold it until I got there. This is more then I really had hoped to spend, but having used it for just a little while I an happy with the purchase. The price only hurt for a little while and I guess this is one of the cases were you get what you pay for. One thing I noticed right away was it was a lot quieter then the other one. It also has this little window (red arrow) in the side of the magazine that lets you see when you are getting low on pins, I wish my Senco finish and brad nailer had this. So far I am giving it an A.
    5 points
  45. I cut the curves on the aprons using the bandsaw and cleaned them up using the spoke shave. No action shots though, I forgot. Then I cut the tapers on the bottoms of the legs at the bandsaw. Cleaned them up back to my line with a hand plane. Then I thought I would go ahead and stack them together to make sure I tapered the right sides.? This afternoon I hand sanded everything to 180 and then, just for Coop, I did a dry fit. I am going to have to shave about a 1/32 of the width of the web frames because my front and back aprons have a small gap. Other then that I am pleased so far.
    5 points
  46. Next thing I did was layout where all the "V" grooves would be for the dividers. In the picture I had already cut the two side pieces. I line up the tip of my bit with the line on my work piece on he router table. Doing set ups like this is where I am real happy I have the Incra fence with the micro adjust, it makes this process a lot easier. Even though I use my miter gauge for this operation I add an extra solid fence (blue) so the piece doesn't accidentally get snagged on the gap in the stock fence. This was one of the dividers pieces cutting groove. When I do the box sides, two of them I have to do a drop to start the groove because I don't want to have the "V" showing on the bottom of the box. I drop it on, just inside the groove for the bottom panel. I make an X on the ends that I want against the fence, by doing this I make sure that even if my set up is a fuzz off the two "V" grooves will still be aligned when things get glued up. I also put the X's against the stop block for the first cut when making my miter cuts later in the project. This is done also to keep the grooves aligned. With the miter sled stop block set up I cut the miters on the long pieces first. Then using the 5 inch spacer block I cut the small pieces. Next I cut my bottom panel to size. Using my dado blade I cut a rabbet on all four sides of the panel. The rabbet is 1/8 inch and 3/16 deep this gives me a 1/8 inch tongue all the way around the panel. I align all my joints and put blue tape on them for the glue up. I use a straight edge while doing this, it make it a lot easier to keep the edges lined up. The panel fits in the groove like this. The panel is 5/16 of an inch thick, the groove is 1/8 of an inch up from the bottom of the box side pieces. So this give me 1/16 of an inch reveal on the bottom of the box so the box looks like it is floating when it is in its upright orientation. When everything is glued up the bottom panel looks like this.
    5 points
  47. Well the chairs are completely finished!!! The upholstery guy gave me a call this morning that he had the seats done. Super happy how they turned out. Put them all on and moved the chairs to the house. Happy to say they all fit around the table!
    5 points
  48. I received this branding iron for Christmas from my daughter and family. My granddaughter came up with the design including designing the font itself. It takes about ten minutes to warm up, I tried it after five minutes but it wasn't hot enough at that point. It does take a little trial and error to get the touch down. Here is what I learned at least with this one, other company's branding irons may be different. You don't have to press hard, you just need to apply enough pressure to hold it in place, to much pressure and you don't get a crisp image. If I tried to hold it with just one hand the opposite side would not burn as well as the side of your hand, when I did it with both hands holding it in place, it came out much better. After I burned the image I sanded it lightly, this removed most of the fuzzy looking edges from the image. I tried it on cherry and maple for roughly ten seconds, no sophisticated stop watch involved just counting in my head. They both came out pretty much the same. I have no idea how this would go with darker woods. The company that this one came from is called High Desert CNC Designs, he is on Etsy. The on that I have was $68.00 and comes with a rest and a small wire brush to clean the head when needed. I don't know how other branding irons are but this one the brass portion screws on and off, so if you wanted multiple designs you would only have to purchase the brass portion in the future which I think is about $35.00. He doesn't do any design work you have to provide your own artwork. You send in your artwork and they send you back a proof for approval then you place your order. Once he has your order it ships in 1 to 3 days from Southern California. He also does stamps for leather.
    5 points
  49. Pulled the trigger! Should be here in February around the time I get back home.. Current 14" is sold and should be picked up in the spring when the roads get a little better. The current Grizz won't be gone until the new one is in. I will shed a little tear when the Grizz goes! Kind of like that old 6" PM jointer, it's just been a fantastic machine and done everything I've asked it to do.
    5 points
  50. We are getting closer with this project! The side stretchers with their angled tenons all got remade turned out well but I didn’t want to chisel off the remaining portion of the tenon. With it being angled it made it a little challenging to get the angle set just right but was worth it in the end. Made 2 setups for the left and right sides. Used a sliding bevel gauge quite a bit in this project. Using it here to set the angle of the sliding miter gauge. After getting all the upper stretchers cut, I dry fit a chair to get a measurement for the lower stretchers. With the lower part of the chair angled back it adds a degree of difficulty to these parts. Not only do the have a splay angle but also an angle to match the leg. Made all my cuts referencing the face. Looks a little sketchy holding the pieces this way but actually wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be. With the tenon jig I made my hands stay quite a bit away from the blade in this operation. Hard to get a picture of the double angle in these parts as it’s a 7 degree splay and 14 on the shoulder. Was very shocked and excited how well they fit together. This was a dry fit that I was able to squeeze together by hand but fits tight enough that some slight convincing with a hammer to get them apart.
    5 points
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