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Next thing I did was get the top on and trimmed it out with some shop made molding and added a banding detail around the case at the base and below the top drawer. There is one other detail I am adding. I am doing a faux through tenon with a pyramid design on top on the from two legs. I removed most of the waste with a forstner bit. Then I clamped my template and routed out the rest. Then leaving the template in place, I cleaned up the corners with a chisel. and it left me with this on the two front corners.

There's 2 new buttons at the top of the page. The first is for affiliate links and the second is for my online store. As most of you know, I pay for all this stuff myself so, am looking to expand a little to make it self sufficient. By using these links to purchase or buying from my store, you help sustain what I do here. The affiliates page is still being populated so, if there's an item you'd like to see there drop me a note and we'll get it added. I'm sure you can understand this is a huge undertaking! Special thanks to my wife and son for putting this together while I

No apologies necessary bud! We appreciate all that you do to keep this great site in order. Minor inconvenience!

Enough chit chat Bmac time to start posting some of you cool journals. 😂

I need to get this caught up. I built the drawer boxes using 1/2 baltic birch ply with 1/4 ply bottoms. I used a half blind Tongue and Rabbet joint for the front corners and dado for the back piece. This is a Half Blind Tongue and Rabbet joint. You may have heard it called a bunch of other names but I first saw it in a book written by Tage Frid clear back in 1979 so I am using the name he used. All six drawers in their future location After this I started on the dovetail drawer slides. Starting with the female section I hog out most of the waste using my dad

Hard as a rock on tools. Some people are really allergic, luckily not me, that’s how I got a few boards. It is a great wood. It can be hard to find in sizes other than deck boards, so if you glue up, you need to clean before glue.

She thought they were two different designs so I would remember which one went on which side of the bed when I got them in the house.

First and most important, apologies for the down time. It started with a faulty hard drive and led to a bunch of other issues. If anything is missing, we have to company we entrusted to do our backups to thank for that! At worst, it should only be a few days. We're currently working on the issues with the older pictures. Even though I'm going to post an updated picture on the Desk build, I would suggest waiting to post pictures until we get that issue resolved. My Desk post with a picture is as much a test as it is an update. We're working diligently to ensure that this does

I think I typed all this out before the server issues but, it was lost so wanted to toss this in here again.. Woodriver 5" Sanding Blocks are great for using those sanding discs from your ROS that still have a little life left in them. They're light weight and the hook/loop seems to hold up pretty well! They're relatively inexpensive (~$12.00) and can be found at the following places.. Woodcraft: https://www.woodcraft.com/products/5-foam-hook-loop-sanding-block Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Foam-Hook-Loop-Sanding-Block/dp/B00H2B61YE/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3GPG6DGXZ4ODH&dch

I’m not 100% certain I’m going to get rid of anything yet, but I am thinking about listing some items. I figure I would see if anybody was interested or looking at adding to their collection here before I do anything official. What I am considering selling are: RTS 400 sander plus systainer of paper LR32 set plus 1080 holey rail RO 90 sander set plus systainer of paper ETS 150/3 36mm hose, it isn’t the antistatic version If anybody was local or knew someone relatively local, I would consider moving my MFT/3. If anyone is interested, I can come up with a pr

Very nice work! I really like the through tenon look!

Hey this is good to know! I order quite a bit from there, if a big purchase is going to be made I’ll let ya know. Will be more than happy to help you out anyway I can.

On the nightstands that I am copying the thru tenons are fake and then to top it off there is no top apron either so that makes them just dumb. I drew them in because they where on the originals but never really planned to incorporate them. They are edge grain to edge grain but I did put in a few small floating mortises just cuz. The legs are 2 inches square the aprons are 3/4" and I just used floating tenons with mortises.

Looking great Chet! I like the banding. Couple of questions: 1) why did you decide to do away with the thru tenons on the front of the legs as in the initial design? 2) the side panels are flush with the legs. Are they set and glued into rabbets or did you rabbet the panels to fit into grooves in the legs. Hope the terminology is correct? 3) the legs are proud of the aprons. How did you perform that? I went back thru this thread and zoomed into the pics but couldn’t pick these out.

Nicely done Chet!

Nice work as always Chet!!

Welcome to the forums Bmac! A few familiar faces here for you! Glad you joined us!

It was probably 7-8 years ago. I made a few small items, like a tablet holder and business card holders for a few clients. I don’t have any of them so not sure how it aged. I tried turning as pen blanks, just didn’t work well. The 1 piece I have left is a dark brown. It will get lighter and a bit of a red with age and UV exposure. Reason it’s called Brazillion Cherry. I have seen on a few boats and looks great, but hard to acquire in long useable lengths. I actually like teak better, but it is just to damn expensive.

Next time she makes fun of your markings, go buy 200 BF, eventually she will stop messing with you or you will have more than enough wood to mess up without given a second thought.

Yea she just likes to give me a hard time about all my excessive markings on my work pieces that keeps me from screwing up.

Yep, I saw you pop in and knew who you were so, just took care of that for you.

No this is a single set up, not a set. I think they have three different sizes based on the dill bit part but I got the one that works with 95% of the screws I use. I think the counter sink part is the same on all three just the drill is different I'll take some pictures of this one tomorrow and get them to you so you get a better idea of how it works. I think I know the set you are talking about and this one is pretty different.

Great work Chet! Nice twist changing up the look with the frames on the top! I'm with your wife though, you should leave the chalk and call it a Star Trek design! 😉

Looking great Chet! Yeah, I would think the female first, then the male, like mortise and tenons. What counter sink bit are you using?

I say this with all due respect. Just remember its called a safety trigger not a gets in my way trigger. Its there to make you think about what you are doing. I hope before you have an accident, you rethink this. Please. Yea, I do Coop. One thing I know about pneumatic tools of any sort is they don't get along with dust of any nature. I don't think most pin nailers work this way. They are a finish tool and you don't want to have an extra ding or dent in you project from banging the head to fire.