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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/07/2021 in all areas

  1. She thought they were two different designs so I would remember which one went on which side of the bed when I got them in the house.
    2 points
  2. Welcome to the forums Bmac! A few familiar faces here for you! Glad you joined us!
    1 point
  3. Next time she makes fun of your markings, go buy 200 BF, eventually she will stop messing with you or you will have more than enough wood to mess up without given a second thought.
    1 point
  4. Enough chit chat Bmac time to start posting some of you cool journals. 😂
    1 point
  5. Yea she just likes to give me a hard time about all my excessive markings on my work pieces that keeps me from screwing up.
    1 point
  6. Yep, I saw you pop in and knew who you were so, just took care of that for you.
    1 point
  7. No this is a single set up, not a set. I think they have three different sizes based on the dill bit part but I got the one that works with 95% of the screws I use. I think the counter sink part is the same on all three just the drill is different I'll take some pictures of this one tomorrow and get them to you so you get a better idea of how it works. I think I know the set you are talking about and this one is pretty different.
    1 point
  8. Great work Chet! Nice twist changing up the look with the frames on the top! I'm with your wife though, you should leave the chalk and call it a Star Trek design! 😉
    1 point
  9. Looking great Chet! Yeah, I would think the female first, then the male, like mortise and tenons. What counter sink bit are you using?
    1 point
  10. I need to get this caught up. I built the drawer boxes using 1/2 baltic birch ply with 1/4 ply bottoms. I used a half blind Tongue and Rabbet joint for the front corners and dado for the back piece. This is a Half Blind Tongue and Rabbet joint. You may have heard it called a bunch of other names but I first saw it in a book written by Tage Frid clear back in 1979 so I am using the name he used. All six drawers in their future location After this I started on the dovetail drawer slides. Starting with the female section I hog out most of the waste using my dado stack. I center the stack on my work and made a pass then flipped it end for end to keep it centered. After this I ran it through on the router table with my 5/8" dovetail bit and again flipped it end for end for a second pass. After this I started on the male portion. My Dovetail bit is a 7° bit so I set the saw blade to the same and adjust the height to 3/8" and move the fence to the left of the blade. Then after making a pass on each side I test the fit and gradually sneak up on the fit. I find that making the female first then fitting the male to it is easier then the other way around. My fit goal is a gap of about 10 thou on each side which can look like a lot but after you get a couple of coats of finish on it and some wax it is just about perfect. You end up with this. Next I notch each end to fit over the web frame. I center and then screw it to the front part of the web frame. I only attach the front at this point, then once I get the female slide attached to the drawer bottom and the drawer front added to the drawer, I can slide it in place and by nudging the the back of the male dovetail left or right I can get everything on the front side of the drawer flush and centered, then carefully clamp and then screw the back dovetail to the web frame. I used my drill press with a counter sink bit to drill six holes in the female sections of the glides, three down each side. When attaching the slide to the drawer bottom I used 1 1/4" screws on the two back holes because they go into the drawer back, the other four were 3/4". I cut the drawer fronts to almost final size and will finesse the final fit with a hand plane. My wife likes to be a Wise A$$ sometimes, she asked if I was going to leave the caulk when they are finished. 🙄 Then the two top drawers get trimmed out a little different.
    1 point
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