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  1. Sorry for not being around much lately. Took a little family trip and have been playing catch up since. We went to Rocky Mountain national park to take in the sites. Was a great time! Only work that I’ve gotten done on the cabinets is getting all the doors and face frames finish sanded. Took quite a bit of time to get through them all. I believe it was right around 7 hours of sanding time. This photo was taken after about 2 solid hours of sanding, the cart on the left was the progress. Will start staining as soon as I get the 1/4” ply skins cut and sanded.
    5 points
  2. So I’ve had some Purple Heart and Padauk sitting here waiting to be used and got an idea for a kitchen cart with a cutting board attached to the top. With the extra 2x4 pieces I had lying around I have not had to buy any materials so far. Also this is my first time doing half lap, dowel fasteners, and inlays so I’m loving the testing of my skills with this project. Any way. I wanted to get your thoughts on how to attach the bottom shelf. I built it using inner dimensions without thinking about how to attach it. The only thing I can come up with is using pocket holes in the corners to attach to the legs. Any other thoughts to avoid using screws as much as possible? Credit to MWA woodworks on YouTube for the flag cutting board idea.
    5 points
  3. Thanks! Well finished up my computer area and bit drawer today ... everything has a nice spot to live in instead of just thrown in there. This should be one of the final projects for a bit in the shop, until I go after some door on the upper miter saw cabinets sometime. Also have 2 temporary cabinets in the middle of the miter saw cabinets. Trying to see how I like having things there and what actually works there. I will try to remember to grab a pic tomorrow of those. Then once I get a better idea of what should live at that level I will make nicer non scrap wood ones with the final designs ...
    5 points
  4. Hmmmm, this might be the approach I need to take ... if this step doesnt work out. Not sure on final position of it, we shall see how annoying it is jointing or not. From this angle the outfeed of the jointer is closest to us. Also finished my new clamp rack area ... feels so much more roomier over there now without the bulky box type. It was J kats' new setup which looked great, so felt I should try it and like it a lot. All the clamps up there and can easily move them around and reorg if needed.
    5 points
  5. Can’t help you there. Perfection at screwing, comes with practice. 😀
    4 points
  6. Haha I kinda forgot about this trend till I was looking at some of the pictures of our latest trip. Went to Colorado for about a week. Kids had a good time as did we. The Mountain View’s and weather were a nice change from the heat and humidity of Iowa summers. Kevs shirt made an appearance on the trip as well! Lol don’t know why I look so mad in the pic, other than the kids taking my sunglasses from me! I assure you I was in. Good mood!
    4 points
  7. I’ve made thru dominos before but not intentionally? 😳
    4 points
  8. You do know that you can frost your own glass out of a spray can right? You can also purchase glass etcher that's more of a brush on. Cool think about both is that if you want an artistic design in the glass, a simple stick down pattern on the glass before you etch it will leave those areas clear giving you the design you want.
    3 points
  9. So I saw awhile back on the Festool FB page … exposed dominoes as a feature. I figured I would try it out on the bits drawer I made. this is a 1/2 drawer. So the dominoes are #5 and tiny. turns out to not be as ugly as I thought in person and kinda a neat feature. Also super easy to make marking everything off the domino “bendable tabs” not sure what those black things are called next to the cutter. let the slamming begin 🤣
    3 points
  10. Well it’s been kinda slow going on this project the last few weeks. I would find a random hour here and there to work on it. This weekend that changed, spent the better part of both days in the shop. Was talking with the client and she decided to go with plywood drawer boxes. Typically I would go with a lighter colored wood like maple or birch to make the box sides and dovetail them. So this was a little change for me. Kicked it around on how I was going to put them together and decided just glue and screw with butt joints. The drawer sides got a 1/4 grove cut in them to accept the 1/2 bottom that gets a rabbit on the edges so it fit the grove. The inside face of the drawer box gets sanded before assembly along with the bottom. I used a pin nailer to hold the parts in place till I could get a couple screws in. I ended up switching to the 18g nailer after a couple boxes as the pins weren’t holding very well. I then would countersink a hole and put a 1 3/4” screw in. Was really the first project that I got to use the m18 surge impact driver and was really impressed with how quiet it is. It runs pretty fast so did over drive a couple screws at the start. With the box assembled I took an 1/8 round over bit to the top and bottom. Trying to reduce the chances of a snag on the plywood veneer. It’s an imported plywood that I am using and the quality and veneer thickness is less than deserving of a positive comment. I had some latex wood filler laying around that I used to fill some of the voids in the plys. Really wasn’t to many of them to fill and is a step that I’m glad I took. Most of the plywood and drawers ready to get finish put on them. Happy to say I did get all the play wood and drawers sprayed tonight. The new sprayer worked perfectly and will be ordering a little wider spray pattern tip for it. The 412 tip I got was for a different style gun and wouldn’t fit this one. Used the 311 to get by for today. I did grossly underestimate the amount of finish that I actually needed. I had 2 gallons on the sealer and 3 of the top coat. Burned them up really fast. My brother came down today so I had him pick me up 5 gallons of each to see the project through. All the dados were glue is going to be applied get taped off. Am really happy with the progress this weekend. Wanted to be at this point as we are taking off for Colorado to take in some sites.
    3 points
  11. HAH! yall just thought this was dead and done 😛 Switching around the layout a tad to see how it goes. This was current setup ... Here is the switch ... I have 5' behind the TS of space before hitting the cabinets ... this should get me through like 95% of my cuts, and if I need to cut longer I will just turn it back to where it was for those. Mainly, it lets me cut with the garage door down. I dont have to stand in the sun after noon to cut as well. and the 3rd thing the dust collection run is easier to hook up and doesnt require me crawling through the outfeed table to attached it. The other thing ... what have yall used or seen used to cover up wires running on the floor? I was thinking one of those rubber covers ?? not sure what would work best here ... This is the TS power cord
    3 points
  12. @Coop and @Kev thanks. I have a couple of other fixtures in the shop that that take the M6 so all I have to do is raid my stash.
    3 points
  13. Thanks for the compliment but like success at the BJ table, there was a bunch of luck involved. And thanks for advice from you and Bryan and Chet. Otherwise I would have probably wimped out and done overlay, not saying overlay are not nice but I just wanted the challenge.
    3 points
  14. Made a few cutting boards for some gifts. This one here was made for our community park auction. The town has been building a new city park for a few years and do a Facebook auction as a fundraiser. Took the picture as it was in the process of soaking up some mineral oil yet. The state outline and lettering I cut in with a v groove bit and a plunge router. My wife has a circut that she cut the design out on, put the sticker on the board and painted over it. Removed the sticker to get the pattern to cut, then painted over the cut before sending back through the drum sander. With the variation in width on the letters I did try and adjust the depth of cut as I went Have to say it worked better than I thought. There are a few wobbles in the cut but I can live with them. For finish I like to hit with around 5 coats of mineral oil then use a butcher block conditioner product. Seems to be a wax and mineral oil mix.
    2 points
  15. Looking at those pictures I still wonder why I ever left Colorado.
    2 points
  16. It is hard to tell from the picture but I would use a table edge profile bit. Depending on the depth of cut the bit will provide a round edge and give the appearance of a thinner table. Used on the bottom surface it will leave a flat, sharp edge on the top. I use it in a hand held router, sneaking up on the depth of cut I want. When I made this kitchen island I wanted a gentle slope to the edge, and used the bit on the stop surface. The table top was a strong 6/4.
    2 points
  17. I would use a round over bit in the router with a bearing. I myself would probably use a hand held router as apposed to the router table and have the bottom side of the table top up to do the work.
    2 points
  18. I've frosted a few things over the years, it's really not hard. You should be able to buy it in a rattle can at the big box store.. There's also lots of YT videos on it.. If you're going to do a design, I've used the stuff they used on kitchen shelves. Just stick it on the glass, draw/cut your design, and spray..
    2 points
  19. I've got a Makita and a ts75 I probably use the Makita more because of weight. I also have a Festool 55" and 75" tracks plus a Makita 118" track. I use the 55" for cross cuts on 4 x 8 sheets 55" on 5x5 and the 118" on 8' sheets. I have no real desire for a battery saw because I always use a vac so I have a hose anyway
    2 points
  20. I ran a custom made heavy duty extension cord along my over head ducting for my DC to the right side of my table saw to power my DC which sits just to the right of my table saw. I just used zip ties every so often to hold it in place.
    2 points
  21. I took my armoire to my brothers house today to put the primer coat on. You are right. To fill the hose probably took a pint of paint. He has made an adapter to his sprayer to reclaim the paint in the hose using air pressure. Thank goodness as I will be using Benjamin Moore paint at $75 per gallon.
    2 points
  22. Looking great! That is one of the drawbacks to that paint set up! Because you have to fill the entire hose, it does use a lot more material!
    2 points
  23. lol.. I have a video for that.... Link for the fasteners in the show notes..
    2 points
  24. Got mine today. Haven't used it yet, need to make a couple of sub fences. It was slightly out of square to my saw, very easy to calibrate which by itself is a first for any of my previous miter gauges. I have no regrets about this purchase.
    2 points
  25. Sorry I have been absent for several months but life got busy and me trying to start a new business after being laid off has been a time sink for sure. I am getting coming up for some air and have slowed down to a somewhat manageable pace so I should be back around more regularly. So, the wife is finally getting her wish of an outdoor kitchen (my wish) dining/hang out area (hers) and we all know what that means, more work for me lol. With this, I will be building the dining table and some other side tables and stuff to go around everything. For now, it will be kicked off with this build, which I should be able to start on once I get the plans back from the company doing the work. We have the 3d rendering of it overall, but I didnt get my floor plan yet. So it is roughly dimensioned 96x42 so its gonna be a big boy when its all said and done ... Here is my first initial take on what I am thinking for the build ... A few of my starting questions though I need help thinking through ... 1) Wood type? I was thinking Cedar, as the ceiling will be cedar and might look good to tie into that. Was also thinking flatsawn Sapele and not riftsawn/quartersawn I think the racing stripes might be too much for this table haha. Also tossing out the idea of just mahogany as well. Really struggling with what type of look for it. 2) Since it is outside, I am planning on putting a layer of epoxy on all the leg bottoms, then tossing some leveling feet on there. Does that sound like a good idea? Not sure on what kind of leveling feet yet, have not even started looking. Assuming they have some basic ones that are not too hard to mess with. 3) The total height of the table is 31" I think that should be good? I need to go look at some outdoor dining chairs and get an idea of their height once sitting in them. Then finalize the height of the table. 4) Table top ... I was thinking doing slats, but this "should" not really be in the elements as it will be under a roof. So I was thinking a solid top should be fine and rain would not be hitting it just laying on top. Plus, it would be easier to keep clean as well. Any reason to consider a slat top? Anything else in the video you see or thoughts on things I could add/try to the table? For the most part, it is a pretty basic build, just big. Main goal was just to make sure it wasnt "blocky" looking and that is why I have some of those subtle additions on the top and the aprons.
    2 points
  26. 2 points
  27. Haven’t gotten much time in on this project the last couple weeks. Well mostly because I was waiting on picking up the line bore machine. Took a day off work and drove up to the twin cities to pick it up. Did take a little time in getting it setup, I ended up taking the left and right end bits out to make it a 21 shot. It just seems to line up better for base cabinets being that way. The hole placement on a base cabinet side is pretty critical. I use a spacer to bump the drawer slide over so it is flush with the face frames. The plastic spacer is screwed into the shelf hole. I line the drawer slide up with the elongated holes. Then drill each set of holes, making sure to register off the bottom of each side. The upper cabinets are 42” tall so for their holes I mark center and line the bit up by eye. The bits are carbide with a Brad point. All the plywood is cut, dados in and groves along with the shelf holes. Have it all staged around the sanding table. Will hit it all quickly with 180 grit. Will knock off all sharp edges and hit the finished face looking for any scratches or dents. It goes pretty quick. Did get a different finish gun for this project along with the finish. What’s left to build is the drawers which I need to get material for yet, some crown molding along with a few other trim strips, the 1/4” cherry skins need to be cut, and build the toe kick bases.
    2 points
  28. Maybe you could hit the routed shapes and lettering with a propane or MAPP gas torch and then run it though the drum sander to clean up the edges to get them crisp looking again.
    1 point
  29. nope, hand screwing ... I think the last batch of screws I had would of snapped themselves if they saw a drill coming at them 🙂
    1 point
  30. The braided wire and d-rings are what I use. I predrill for the screws using a vix bit. Depending on the wood I also coat the screw with bees wax to lubricate the screw.
    1 point
  31. Finished the top/cutting board of the build. I decided to add a 1/4” maple border. Unfortunately had some kick back that messed up a miter and was out of material, but my miter joints are improving. I ended up doing epoxy for the stars since my inlay wasn’t lining up after a couple of go’s. Just waiting on a few hinges to finish the cart and then it will be time to break down, sand, and paint. Also, I ended up just doing some small pocket screws for the bottom.
    1 point
  32. I have to admit not a huge fan but I've definitely seen much worse drawer construction, next time add a wedge or two as well 🙂
    1 point
  33. I did the entry table with the floating top a few years ago that turned out pretty cool!
    1 point
  34. I used this kind of glass on my door and it looks sharp against the walnut.
    1 point
  35. Just my opinion, I think doing the table without the maple would look good on its own.
    1 point
  36. If the maple accents are the thin strips that you see in the first frame of the video, I don’t see them being worth the effort. JMO but the glass breaks up any continuity they would have, from one side to the other. And I do like maple and walnut in a build. Not to bust your bubble.
    1 point
  37. I bought one of these about a month ago. An I love it the is only comparable to the Sthil commercial grade weed eater my dad has. I’ve always ran Milwaukee tools at work an have slowly been picking up a lot of there tools I don’t have at work for the house. Their nail guns are awesome to for a battery power. I bought the 16gauge finish nailer for trim work around the house. Got tried of dragging the pancake compressor around. The paper work says it will shoot about 325 nails on one battery. I haven’t tested yet but I shot around 100 today a went down only one bar on battery life with a 5.0 battery
    1 point
  38. I used my CNC machine for the stars with a 60 degree vee bit.
    1 point
  39. I've used 2x4 sleepers for years as well when the piece is too big to get the cut in the right place on my table. Works well and the sleepers last forever.
    1 point
  40. just to add some to this ... as a makita track saw owner ... 1) The stock cord is short, at least I thought so and so having ply on saw horses and plugged into my shop vac, I always felt like I barely had enough cord to finish the 4' cross cut. With that, I did make my own cord and added another 5' to the orginal length ... I think it puts it somewhere like 15-17' now or something like that. I would have to go measure it. 2) I have never ran into anything it couldnt handle ... with some real hard woods, I normally just take 2 cuts anyways on things in the 6-8/4 range. 3) would I buy it again? possibly, but I would really want to look hard into cordless, I think it would be easier without the cords. As I know nothing else than the makita, I like it and have no complaints, minus the cord length.
    1 point
  41. Just to add, if you buy the Festool you get a 55” track, if you want and have room for the longer rail, the festool will ride on the Makita rail. Also the rail connectors Chet mentioned, the Makita version are actually better than the festool.
    1 point
  42. I have the Festool TS 55 the smaller of the two corded saws. I think I would want to use a cordless version before committing to it. I would like to see how it felt balance wise compared to the one I have. Its probably just because I have the Festool but recently my neighbor bought a Mikita track saw and it seemed nice enough but it just felt different in the plunging action. I would imagine that if that was the only one you ever used it would be fine but I like my Festool. Just if you are interested I like having a 55 inch track and a 75 inch track instead of a long single track. I have the two bars that allow me to join then together if needed. They slide in on the bottom side with set screws to tighten them in place. There is no performance lose with this set up, you don't even feel the saw going over the joint of the two tracks. Its easier to find storage for two short tracks in my garage shop as apposed to one long one. The TS 55 has a depth of cut of 1-15/16" at 90° when using the track. I clamp the track on critical cuts but the track does a good job by itself.
    1 point
  43. 1 point
  44. I use these in one spot for cords in my shop everything else is out of the way. I have two pretty heavy duty cords under them, I think I could get three if needed. I ordered them from Uline. I have two of the smaller ones, 36"X5"X1". They are designed to interlock end to end. https://www.uline.com/BL_2869/Pedestrian-Cable-Protectors My Tablesaw sits the same as your but with a little less then 5 Ft. behind me and it works well. My Jointer sits behind me when I am at the saw so if it is something like a 5 X 5 sheet of ply I just rest it up over the jointers pork chop for the firs few inches.
    1 point
  45. Congrats Bob. Don’t forget that the suggested bolts for the track for the sacrificial fence are not the ones you want as they don’t fit.
    1 point
  46. You could always laminate the 8/4 to get the thickness for the legs. There's a few ways to hide the glue line if needed. Epifanes is awesome for outdoor furniture. Word to the wise though, it will be very difficult to repair/refinish in the future.
    1 point
  47. BW, I built two Adirondack chairs and a side table from cypress about 7 years ago and except for the ends of the feet, they have held up extremely well. I should have coated the feet ends with epoxy. These have been uncovered and outside under a tree since I built them. I am also replacing my purple Martin house with cypress ones as they get older. I think you would be happier with a solid top rather than having spaces between your boards. Easier to clean and refinish and a laminated solid top won’t allow individual boards to bow. As much as I like mesquite, it’s sold as exotics here in Houston and way out of my price range. Also long straight lumber is almost impossible to find.
    1 point
  48. I could come real close to calling a game changer in the miter gauge world. Being able to adjust the stop block and everything with the turn of a knob instead of need a tool like Incra is great. In addition to that, the micro adjust feature built in to the stop block is real useful, I am surprised at how much I have use it when fitting parts.
    1 point
  49. I think you're a better woodworker than you give yourself credit for!
    1 point
  50. Looking good! I'm not sure that's the spray unit you want for cabinets though.. I have one and use it to paint the house.. Produces a lot of overspray and is a PITA to clean..
    1 point
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