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  1. Today
  2. wont even be able to tell in the end with the great looking repair! 104BF of Sapele would be amazing to play with! These are going to look amazing!!
  3. Yesterday
  4. Glad you caught the loose bit when you did. Very nice recovery.
  5. Well I had something go wrong today. I guess I didn't tighten the bit in the router properly and while cutting the dado on the back legs for the back panel the bit started to raise as I was going along. I got about 6 inches in when I felt the bit chattering a little, thats when I found out what was going on. You can see some of the chatter marks where the arrow is pointing. The pencil line shows how the bit was climbing most of the material to the left of the pencil line wasn't supposed to be gone. I tightened up the bit but then ran another pass at that height to clean things up for a
  6. Last week
  7. The other step to this but I haven't done it yet is you put a really small chamfer which completely hides the veneer line. The thinner the veneer the smaller chamfer has to be. This was about 1/16". Yep, this one will get tossed as soon as I know I haven't messed up anything and need to make a new leg. I save the hardware, I even remove the screws to us in the next jig.
  8. Jamie, are these put on hold until after the desk is completed?
  9. I love jigs but unfortunately so many are a one time deal. I save a few but most go to the burn pile. Looking good Chet! Sure like the veneer trick!
  10. Nice looking legs! I’m going to be using your trick on legs real soon!
  11. After gluing up the leg blanks I cut some veneer to glue over the glue lines on the leg blanks. You can see the veneer on the top and bottom on this end view of the leg. Doing this gives you nice grain on all four sides of your leg and saves you having to buy thicker stock to make you legs from. After this I made up a jig to cut the dados in the legs for the web frames using the router. Squared up the dados with some chisels. Next up is the web frames.
  12. Jamie, in Rockler’s new sales brochure they advertise 15% off of their Timbercast epoxy. I have never used or heard of it.
  13. If you are doing the pour in a form, instead of using up a lot of time and wood shavings you could just get the tops flat and then shim everything level from the bottom. No one would ever see the shims when the desk is finished.
  14. Chet

    Welcome Tyler!

    Welcome aboard Tyler.
  15. I’m not a huge fan of the look but like the concept of taking not the best lumber and turning it into something. Think I have it half way figured out with the second slab. Did end up cutting the left edge off which will be the back. Trying to use as much wood and little of the epoxy that I can. The left slab has a pretty good twist to it so will be thinning these up quite a bit. Thinking will be around 1.5 inches said and done.
  16. Kev

    Welcome Tyler!

    Apologies for the slow response! Welcome to the forums!
  17. I’m not a big fan of River tables overall, but the good thing is you can be more flexible in the design with epoxy. If you need 2 inches in width you can make that up with epoxy unlike a solid wood slab.
  18. These ideas have crossed my mind as well. Now having the 2 slabs it might make this go quite a bit better to get the desired width of 22"+ hopefully get some time to mess with it tonight.
  19. This sounds like a good idea.
  20. The one I did I cut down the middle and turned the live edges to the center.. If you did it that way you could add to the saw cut edge to get the width you want
  21. HA! You think now. Wait till your bride gets my wife’s age! 🤐 sure glad she doesn’t follow this forum! 😀
  22. Jamie, does the width of 16-19” wide include the split part off to the right in the second to last pic? How do you propose to form the river design? Maybe what you have in mind but I was thinking ripping the slab down the middle, then ripping part of the live edge off of each side until a large part the live edge is now parallel to it’s other edge. Then put the two live edges together to form the center of the desk and the remaining part of your live edges will form the river part and the outside edges of the top will be square. If you still need added depth, front to back, rip the live edge o
  23. We are thinking the same. I was messing around with some layout on the top which is 16-19” wide and will finish at around 49” long and is over 2” thick now yet. Not sure if that will be wide enough to be useful as a desk with the curve of the tree falling off the front, which narrows the usable writing space. I did go back to the shop tonight and got another piece of that tree. This time for $30 as it’s pretty narrow and will have a lot of bark on the bottom side. So not sure if it will even work. The guy who I got the slabs from said to try it and see if I can get it to work if not I don’t o
  24. Jamie. What is the width and thickness of the current slab? If this was my project, I would take the pieces in the second to last photo and then fill in between those pieces. Buy a sheet of melamine to make a form and use packing tape to avoid the epoxy sticking to it. You could also use regular ply if you use the packing tape. It also doesn’t hurt to use silicone caulk at the joints. I would think for a kids desk, 18 to 20” in depth is sufficient. As for the epoxy almost any would work. If you can’t do a deep pour you can always do multiple pours. Just remember to write down your
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